Posts Tagged With: Vietnam

Day 10 Vietnam: Ha Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay.

The boat has early starts which isn’t that big a deal since all the children on board are up early anyway….and they are not quiet. The sun also wakes you up! For those who wanting to be up very early, sunrise is 5:15am followed by 6am Tai Chi on the deck. We skipped both on the first morning on the boat but made it for a 6:45am light breakfast.

Between 7:30 and 8am our group split into those returning to Ha Long Passenger Terminal after 1 night and people like us (across multiple boats) who are staying 2 nights on board. We hopped on a smaller “day boat” with a mixed group to transfer to Lan Ha bay. Lucky us had a group of Australian backpackers on board…behaving exactly as the stereotype suggests. Sigh. On the way to Lan Ha Bay we stopped at Bo Hon Island and had the option to kayak at Dark and Bright caves area. This was a no from me due to the twisting. We got to walk through the cave on Bo Hon island instead which was really cool…and full of bats! Then sit for a little at a beautiful beach.

We were then supposed to head to Ba Trai Dao beach (Three Peaches Beach) for swimming in the crystal water and lazing on the white sand. Apparently there was a change of plans and instead they anchored in Lan Ha Bay and people were able to swim in the bay and jump off the boat. I was a little disappointed as I had been looking forward to that particular beach.

Lunch was served on the boat at 12:30 before we started the 1 hour return to Ha Long bay. We had one additional short stop at the Pearl Farm Exhibition Center and Museum to learn how to raise a pearl farm and harvest pearls. It was hugely touristy /sales focused and you could tell most of the people on the boat were not impressed with it and would have much preferred the beach visit. In addition, they left us there for an hour! I was pissed.

We transferred back to our main boat around 3:30pm to freshen up and relax in the cabin as there were no staff on board – they had gone to collect the new overnight guests. From 5-7pm we had another happy hour (cocktails…yum) followed by 7pm dinner. The boat was totally full last night and I was not coping with the noise levels or the people…I drank 7 Long Island iced teas to help lol. We requested a private dinner this time after seeing the dining area was set up for multiple larger groups and eventually they moved us upstairs which was really nice of them.

I didn’t have to take meds this time after I ate shellfish the night before….despite being assured it wasn’t in the food. They definitely had that sorted this time. It was another beautiful sunset as well, we have been lucky with the weather.

Last night on the boat tonight before we transfer to Hue tomorrow!

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Day 9 Vietnam: Hanoi – Ha Long Bay

This section of our trip was done with a larger tour group with “Oriental Sails”. Overall we were happy we went with a smaller boat but of only 13 cabins but visiting the “sites” at the cave and beach was literally hell for us. Imagine 3000 rude tourists stuck in 30m square of beach, ocean and/or cave. No thanks.

We put our scopolamine patches behind our ears before brekkie. These aren’t available for sale in Australia but can be legally imparted and they are amazing – B had no nausea from it and I had minor nausea. Important to test them beforehand though as the small percentage who get side effects get some pretty wild ones you wouldn’t want to experience on a boat in the middle of a bay for the first time!

We were collected by a shuttle bus at 8am from our hotel in Hanoi and arrived at the pier around midday. The terminal was insanity with tourists and guides everywhere. By 12.30 we were (happily) on the boat! We enjoyed a welcome drink while getting a brief introduction about the 2 night cruise and the Vietnamese version of safety guidelines (so…none). We were able to check in to our cabin then.

We had a late lunch while cruising in Ha Long Bay. After about 1.5hrs, we anchored at Titop Island area. Here we had the option to join in on a guided visit to Sung Sot Cave (also called Amazing Cave) which is one of the biggest caves in Ha Long Bay. It was a pretty epic cabe once we got into it but the insane crowds were almost enough to turn us off even trying. We could also climb to the peak of Titop Island for a panoramic view of the bay or relax on the beach…both again came with about 3000 jerk tourists all shoving each other out of the way. We found far more enjoyment from watching the sunset back on the boat with happy hour.

Evenings on the boat have a few options – we can select a communal or private dinner followed by karaoke, cooking classes, relaxing/napping or even join in squid fishing with the crew. After the crew tried to kill me with a full shellfish menu (lucky me…) we watched some of the kids squid fish while we waited for the toddler in the cabin next to use to finally decide to sleep.

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Day 6: Cai Rang Floating Market (Can Tho) and Hanoi

After another early breakfast at the eco lodge that not only didn’t feed me last night but also has beds that feel like concrete….our guide collected us. We caught an early morning cruise to Cai Rang Floating Market- the busiest floating market with heaps of boats. So much people watching! We ate some tasty fresh fruit purchased from one of the boats.

We were meant to walk around a village and visit a rice husking mill but as you can see from that last photo, the weather turned. Instead we went back to the pier early, had highlands coffee and people watched some more. We then visited Binh Thuy ancient house and learnt all about the different aspects of pottery, Chinese gifting and family life during the Nguyen Dynasty.

Around 10am we headed off for Can Tho Airport to take a domestic flight to Hanoi. This meant saying goodbye to our south Vietnam guide John and driver Ben.

When we arrived in Hanoi we were met by our northern guide (Lucie) who took us to the hotel. She is very efficient! In a 30 min car ride she booked us on a food tour tomorrow night, moved our meeting time to 10am instead of 8am and showed us heaps of dog photos haha. She also recommended a restaurant a few mins walk from our hotel (Palago Hotel) in the old quarter.

The restaurant was called Cha Ca Tháng Long and serves Cha Ca – a unique specialty of the Hanoi people. Cha Ca can be made from mudfish or snake headed fish, but the best one is made from Hemibagrus (Ca Lang). The fish bone is removed to keep the meat moist, it is seasoned, covered by hanana leaves and grilled by coals to about 70% cooked. It then comes out to the table and a small table hot plate is used while serving to keep the Cha Ca hot. Cha Ca is served with roasted peanuts, rice noodles, spice vegetables (dill, spring onion, coriander, mint) and fish sauce. It turned out they also have a 2023 Michelin guide mention so I’m super glad we went!

Note to self: next time I plan a trip itinerary like this I need to build in a few nothing days throughout rather than lump them at the end. We have done 3 x early wake ups in a row and have 8 more to go. I have regrets. It’s been so long since we had a trip like this I didn’t even think of it!

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Day 5: Mekong Delta – Ben Tre – Can Tho

After breakfast, the guide and driver collected us at 7:30am and it was a 2- hour drive to Ben Tre province crossing Rach Mieu bridge. Our first visit was at a brick kiln to see how to make bricks traditionally by printing and baking. Those brick kilns are opened in summer time only when there is enough sunshine to dry bricks.

We also visited a coconut processing workshop located along the canals where we drank fresh coconut water.

Upon arrival in Hung Vuong Pier, we boarded a motorized boat on Ben Tre River – one of the tributaries of the Mekong river – while sight-seeing every day activities along the river such as fishing and boats transferring fruits, flowers and rice to local markets and some even bigger coconut factories!

We stopped the boat to visit a coconut candy factory (o bought so much haha) and met some local musicians who performed traditional music. We also sampled some local fruit.

We hopped off the boat and took a Tuk-Tuk (motorized cart) to lunch at a local riverside restaurant. After lunch, we took a rowing-boat (Sampan) along a beautiful water palm creek. We got to say hello to locals…although did it quietly as many were having post-lunch naps on their sampans!

We rejoined our driver to go to Can Tho city which was another 3.5hrs driving and included a slightly nerve racking car ferry. We are staying one night at an ecolodge here which is locally run and pays living wages to locals. I won’t name it as unfortunately our experience hasn’t been amazing – but that was influenced by a very short notice change due to their renovations running over. So, I don’t think it’s reasonable to take this as an accurate reflection. The view has helped soften the blow of no food for me lol

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Day 4: Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon final day – Cu Chi tunnels and reunification palace

After breakfast, our local guide collected us at 7:30am and we were off to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels, which are 70 kilometers North West of Ho Chi Minh City. We went early as it was going to be a very hot day…and crowds suck. I am still not coping well with the long drives and feel nauseous a lot because of the stop start approach to driving…even Dramamine can’t save me!

On the way out we stopped at a local factory that employs those injured/with limbs missing from the Vietnam war. They learn how to fresh lacquer art (an old tradition) and sell this to tourists with 50% of sales finding going into programs and supports for them. Very cool type of artwork with shells and beautiful shiny final products.

The tunnels are about a 1.5hr drive from HCMC and make up an underground city with living areas, kitchens, storage, weapon shops, field hospitals, command centers. They were created in 1948 to assist the Viet Minh to combat the French. During the American/Vietnam War, the entire area of Cu Chi was designated a fire free zone and was heavily bombarded. Since 1988, two sections of the tunnels have been open for visitors.

B had some fun firing an M60 machine gun as well.

We headed back to HCMC before lunch and our guide took us to visit the Reunification Palace. We also had lunch at Home Saigon which was absolutely delicious.

We were back at the hotel around 3pm for a poolside rest before tomorrow’s adventure up the Mekong Delta and change of location to Can Tho!

Dinner was Pho at the place full of locals again – it was delicious.

I will miss you Saigon food…..

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Day 3: Vietnam – Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon Walking Street Food Tour

Today we had another day mostly to ourselves so more pool time for me as tourist adventuring starts tomorrow. We were recommended to eat at Den Long restaurant by our local guide which is a short walk from the hotel.

We had rice paper rolls, beef spicy noodle soup and some delicious fruit drinks! Well worth a visit.

In the evening we went on a street food tour! We chose one which was a walking one as I’m not confident at all on the back of a motorbike. We went with Street Food Man who comes highly recommended both online and by people we know https://streetfoodman.com/private-street-food-evening-walking-tour-in-ho-chi-minh-city. The cost is quite high for Vietnamese food at $49 USDpp but you’re paying for the experience and guide as well.

Our local guide picked us up at 5:30pm at our hotel by Grab car. We started our food adventure in a non-tourist district tasting ‘Bánh Xèo” and “Bánh Khọt” – The Central, and South’s Rice Pancake with a lot of fresh Vietnamese vegetables and herbs.

We then walked along a street known for its barbecue seafood vendors and headed to a local-favorite restaurant to taste the best “Bò Lá Lốt” (Beef in Wild Betel Leaves). 

We then walked down alleys of food in the heart of street food district (district 3) and sample a tasty “Bột Chiên”, Pan – Fried Rice Cakes with egg and spring onions which is cooked by a local chef with over 25 years experience We also tried sugar cane juice mixed with a little orange – delicious!

We also had to try the tasty Banh Mi – Saigon Baguette!

We kept walking into the centre of district 3 where Nguyen Thien Thuat is – the old appartments now home to dozens of famous Vietnamese street food vendors. On the corner of Seafood alley, we sat with locals and had delicious BBQ seafood (I am allergic to prawns, so some of ours was replaced by BBQ meat)…our menu here was scallops, beef noodles and chicken wings We also tried homemade Forest Banana Sticky Rice Wine which is brewed in a clay pot by Street Food Man owner Vinny and is 40% alcohol!

We finished off the street food walking tour at the night flower market by enjoying an amazing dessert of icecream and folding down the petals of a lotus flower to get it to bloom.

Our local guide then took a Grab car back to our accommodation with us to ensure we got home safely around 9:30pm. We paid in cash at the end and made sure to tip the guide as well – so $49 USD each for the tour and an extra $10 USD to the guide.

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Day 1 & 2: Vietnam – Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon

DAY 1

Our itinerary for the trip means our first 5 days are spent in Ho Chi Minh City (usually referred to as Saigon). We discovered that because of Vietnamese visa requirements, we had to line up in Perth to check in – it’s been a long time since we did that! They have a terrible system now where everyone just mills around….not my favourite process and especially not at 3am. We flew in to HCMC via Singapore (4.5hrs Perth to Singapore) and spent our 3.5hr stopover relaxing at the airport rooftop pool. Such a nice way to have a break between flights!

The rooftop pool is located in T1 (airside) at the Aerotel Airport Transit Hotel, Level 3, Departure Transit Hall (near D40 Gate). It costs about $27SGD per adult and as well as the pool it also features comfy lounges, a jacuzzi, poolside bar and included towels and showers.

We hopped on our second flight (2hrs Singapore to HCMC) and arrived just before 5pm local time. Immigration was not too bad – about 30 mins – even with my schedule 8 meds. We had an airport transfer arranged and checked into the Eden Star Hotel Saigon in District 1 around 6:30pm.

The evening was spent checking out the amazing rooftop pool at the hotel and going in search of some local food! We had beer and beef pho at Quán phở số 10 which cost about $8 AUD for us both and was a few mins walk away. B not being able to fit properly in the tiny plastic chairs caused much hilarity for the old guys drinking next to us!

DAY 2

I had some work to finish off so after hotel breakfast, I had a quiet start to the day completing that before it was poolside relaxation time. We then headed off for an evening exploration of the Saigon Skydeck. It is located on the 49th floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower and gives panoramic views of Ho Chi Minh City. I booked ahead as I wanted sunset (not that it matters when it’s raining!) but you don’t have to and can just show up.

We had been planning to eat at the restaurant at the top of the building (SENS) for the novelty and the view but the prices were absolutely outrageous. Instead, we walked a few mins up the road to Rice Fields – Homecooked Vietnamese Food which is a little more reasonably priced and has a Michelin guide mention.

After dinner, we used grab to get to Bui Viên which is the “walking street” similar to Bangla Road in Thailand. This one was a little more full on than Bangla Road though with the music being absolutely bonkers.

We walked down and took some photos, including of the insane water levels and then visited The View rooftop bar which was recommended to people watch while avoiding the loud music and drunk people. They also do 3 for the price of 2 cocktails until 9pm!

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3 days to go! One bag packing for Vietnam (7kg carry on + personal item not weighed)

PURCHASE IN COUNTRY

⁃ sunscreen (circle k or tourist shop)

⁃ Bug spray (remos brand)

B PACKING

⁃ paperwork

⁃ deodorant, toothpaste, avene 100ml sunscreen, cetaphil 100ml, seasick patches, bug wipes

OSPREY FAIRVIEW 36L ROLLING BAG

◦ Waterproof poncho

◦ 3 x isocool tshirts (lilac, white, bright pink)

◦ 2 x 3/4 sleeve tops (teal, pink)

◦ 1 x colourful skort

◦ 1 x macpac white linen shorts

◦ 1 x T9 crop 3/4 pants (blue)

◦ 1 x M ripskirt dress short (flowers)

◦ 2 x Bella bodies travel bra

◦ 2 x TS chub rub shorts 5”

◦ 5 x modal black undies

◦ 1 x merino Sleep shorts

◦ 1 x merino paire sleep singlet

◦ 1 x monte Lou bikini set

◦ 1 x lined swim shorts black

◦ 1 x swim/suncover shirt: brown

◦ 1 x crocs thongs

OTHER STUFF

◦ cooling neck scarf + ring

◦ Plug cover for sink washing

◦ Toiletries (non liquid) bag: hairbrush, hair ties/scrunchies, toothbrush, gel ear plugs for snoring, concealer, powder, brush, tweezers, micellar wipes, floss

◦ Toiletries (liquid) bag: shampoo 100ml, conditioner 100ml tub, body wash 100ml, cleanser tube 50ml, TOTD MU remover, 2x med cream, IT redness 20ml, heat spray 50ml, makeup setting 30ml, red correct tub, white concealer tube, face sunscreen 50ml

◦ Laundry bag

◦ 5L dry sack

◦ Mini clothesline + laundry sheets + masks + vomit bags

◦ Medications travel container: Panadol, nurofen, coloxyl, no-doz, dramamine, antibiotics, gastro stop, buscopan, nausea wafers, multiV, something for itch/bites, telfast 180

◦ Palexia, bacclofan, codeine + dr letter

◦ USB C Hair straightener

◦ Small foldable backpack

◦ MacBook 13” and padded sleeve

◦ Crushable travel hat

PERSONAL ITEM (grey crossbody bag)

◦ charger pack including cable, int adaptors and base, fitbit charger and air fly kit

◦ Cheap folding Sunnies

◦ Ereader

◦ AirPods

◦ Ear plugs (loop for plane)

◦ Pen

◦ Money/travel wallet

◦ Vapor water bottle

◦ Merino wool socks for plane / cold feet

◦ Passport

WEAR ON PLANE

⁃ T9 crop 3/4 pants (grey)

⁃ bra (light blue merino racerback)

⁃ modal tshirt

⁃ 1 x Paire undies

⁃ keen Travel sandals

⁃ merino cardigan (pink)

⁃ Fitbit inspire 2

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Vietnam June-July 2024

Woohoo we are off to Vietnam for a few weeks in June/July. Our itinerary is roughly:

We are going south to north, then backtracking to a little more central for the last week so we can enjoy some beach time relaxation.

We looked into intrepid again which is who we travelled with throughout Europe. We opted not to go with them for a few reasons but one of the main ones was with my back issues as bad as they are, a group tour wish other people limits my options around resting or rescheduling things. Instead we have paid a little more and we are going with a bespoke tour company. They create an itinerary with us, book all accomodation, provide drivers and guides but as we are on our own there is lots of flexibility. It also meant I got to choose nicer hotels for the same price intrepid charge.

Finally, we are going to one bag this trip. Yep. 24 days with one bag under 7kg each and I have to take a laptop within that range. Eeeeek. I’ve been researching a lot around clothing types as it’s going to be hot, humid and in the south extremely wet. I love cotton but it just would not dry the last time we were in SE Asia.

Current staple items are:

  • For shirts, it’s Merino wool and tencil blends around the 125 weight. These are quite common in Australia and it means you get all those nice merino benefits but have extra strength and softness from tencil. These are so lightweight they do dry very fast despite being wool. Brands who sell this weight are icebreaker, paire and sometimes merino country.
  • Shoes have been quite the adventure. In the end I’m taking keen Rose sandals which have good arch support, can be worn swimming, good airflow and have a toe cover/guard. I’m taking these instead of sneakers. I’ll also take a slip on, very flat pair of thongs or slides
  • Pants/skirts wise, I tried merino and it didn’t work for me. Linen and cotton take forever to dry and merino dresses tend to be heavier weight so water is an issue there as well, I’ve settled on tech fabrics for bottom half clothing. I am currently wearing my title 9 slaycation capris all the time and they do an amazing job of comfort, quick dry and sun protection. I also purchased my first ever ripskirt along with an Eddie Bauer lilac travel tank dress. All can be mixed and matched with my tops!
  • Bathers/underweae: taking monte and Lou two piece bikini set with me alongside the ripskirt and a sun cover up. For undies it’s exofficio briefs as they dry fast with a few pairs of the airism men’s boxers for sleep time. I have two merino bras now that I really like and they will be coming along. One is the baa bra from merino country and the other is the new icebreaker racerback crop which is the first merino bra that brand has made with medium support vs low.
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