Posts Tagged With: tokyo

Mel’s handy guide for westerners using an onsen (Japanese bath house)

Posted on January 15, 2020 by Mel

TATTOOS IN ONSENS: are controversial and that’s putting it fairly mildly. Tattoos in japan traditionally signalled that you were part of the Yukuza and therefore are not well received. Despite an effort by the government over the last few years to shift this mentality within tourist operations, it still holds true in many places. Nearly every onsen will have a sign saying no tattoos allowed – what you need to work out is how tolerant they are. Will they not care at all? Will they be okay as long as you cover them? Is it a big no-no regardless of if you cover them? I usually cover mine with sticking plasters like those in the picture. Note that you have to be fully naked in the bath so clothing won’t help you!

Reading up to date online reviews helps a lot with this, as does asking at the front desk. I have been to a few onsens throughout this trip and will update my list of tattoo friendly ones below as we progress. For Mel’s handy onsen guide for westerners, please look below this list.

Manneyu Onsen, Tokyo (¥480) – very tattoo friendly, no coverage needed. I confirmed on entering here I had a tattoo and got a thumbs up. Tattoos allowed is plastered all over their website and entry signage.

LaQua, Tokyo (¥700+) – based on a number of recent reviews these guys will not allow tattoos unless they are covered and if they are covered, it can still be hit and miss based on staff and if someone complains. We avoided this one after I read numerous online recounts of security escorting western women off the premises because they had tattoos

Hotel Youtei, Kutchan (¥800) – has a sign saying no tattoos allowed but based on our experience no coverage is needed. There is a high number of Japanese users within the onsen so if possible, use coverings to be polite. I had no issues and on the male side, B told me there was a guy with full sleeves who also had no issues

Hotel Weiss, Hanazono (¥900) – has a sign saying no tattoos allowed but they are very tourist friendly so doesn’t seem to be an issue, many westerners in there with visible tattoos

Hirafutei Onsen, Hirafu (¥1000) – I went in with coverings and had no issues although signage states no tattoos allowed. This is a very tourist heavy onsen due to location so likely to be less of an issue here

Hotel Niseko Alpen Onsen, Hirafu (¥1000) – TBC, signs do not say “no tattoos”

Hilton Niseko Village (¥1200) – in 2014 I went to this onsen without covering my back tattoo and an older Japanese lady abused the hell out of me, hit me with a towel and basically chased me out of the change room. Given that they cater mainly to westerners I don’t think this is the norm! We haven’t been back to this one since as I was a little stressed out

The Vale Niseko Village (¥1000) – could not enter as not available to non-guests in Dec/Jan however signage says no tattoos

Mel’s handy onsen guide for westerners

1. There is always an entry fee unless you are staying at a hotel which has an onsen on site that is free for guests. In major cities like Tokyo and Osaka you are looking at ¥350-¥500 but once you head to tourist areas like Niseko expect to pay more like ¥800-¥1000 (around $11AUD based on the current exchange rate). You pay this at the entry to the onsen or at the hotel front desk. Some places have ticket machines as well which is handy when their English and your Japanese aren’t great.

2. Some will tell you to bring your own towel, some will loan them for free and some will “rent” them to you for ¥200. It’s up to you what your personal preference is but you are expected to have some form of towel with you to dry off with before re-entering the change area. Note that it should not be dunked in water or used as a wash cloth. I can manage with a small towel, B needs a regular sized one to dry off with.

3. You will enter into separate male and female areas – blue flags for men, red flags for women. There is generally no cross gender bathing although a few tourist ones offer a “family friendly” bath now.

4. You will enter a small change room where there will either be lockers or baskets to put your stuff in. This is where you strip off EVERYTHING. You must be totally naked. There are no bathers allowed in the onsen. You strip off all your clothing here and then enter the onsen with just your towel (and locker key if one is available).

5. You will enter the onsen and see a row of small shower cubicles with little seats available. Grab a little seat and pull it up to a shower stall. You then need to completely and totally clean yourself from top to bottom with the provided soaps. And I do mean COMPLETELY and TOTALLY….you need to clean all of your bits thoroughly. You are also meant to wash your hair although many westerners choose to tie their hair up instead. Make sure not to use anyone’s personal cleaning products (Japanese women will often bring these) and to only use the generic ones provided.

6. Now you can relax in the hot bath! There are usually three types – hot indoor, hot outdoor and cold indoor. Sometimes there is a medium temperature one as well. My favourites are the hot outdoor ones as the feel of the warm water plus the cool temperature is glorious. You can submerge just from the waist or go all the way to your neck depending on your tolerances and how you feel about sitting in it up to your waist with your boobs out. You can stay as long as you want to – you will notice Japanese people tend to stay for shorter times than westerners and that’s usually a case of relaxation versus practical use of the bath house, especially in ones used by locals rather than tourists. It is acceptable to bathe, hop out and have a cool shower to cool off, then re-enter the baths if you want to. Women with long hair need to tie their hair up so it is not floating in the water.

7. When you are finished, it is polite to quickly shower again using a cubicle shower (it’s not required though) then dry off before going back into the change room. Once in the change room, you get dressed again and also use any of the facilities available eg the toilet, hairdryer, combs, moisturiser etc

8. Often when you leave the change room and return back to the mixed gender area there is a small seating area and vending machines for you to have a drink and wait for your family members. In traditional onsens you should not take anything in with you except perhaps a bottle of water. In tourist onsens, often people will bring in a can of beer but there is a strong expectation of QUIET in the onsen – no rowdiness allowed. No glass either. Remember the water is 40C or higher in temperature so that combined with alcohol is not a good mix.

Onsen do’s and don’t’s!

DO get naked, no bathers allowed

DO cover your tattoos if you can or ask it if is okay for you to enter with them

DO bring a small towel in with you and rest it on a dry space next to you or on your head if no space is available

DO dry off before you enter the change room area after your bath

DO tie your hair up if it is long so it does not float loose in the bath

DON’T put your towel into the water under any circumstances

DON’T just jump straight in, you must shower and wash thoroughly first

DON’T stare at others in the baths, it is very rude

DON’T be loud or noisy in the baths. If you are able to take a drink in, be sensible and don’t take in glass

DON’T under any circumstances take photos! These photos are all from accomodation posts. Cameras and phones should not be taken into the bath under any circumstances

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Japan 2020 day 8: day trip to Mt Fuji, Hakone and Lake Ashii

Posted on January 13, 2020 by Mel

Today we went on a pre-booked day trip to Mt Fuji and surround with Viator. I did look into doing this on our own but without a car it’s almost impossible to do. This is the link to the specific tour we took: https://www.viator.com/tours/Tokyo/Mt-Fuji-Lake-Ashi-and-Bullet-Train-Day-Trip-from-Tokyo/d334-2142TYO_F800_F820. Make sure to read the terms and conditions carefully – if weather is shit, it still goes ahead and you will see NOTHING. We were very lucky we fluked good weather.

We used the metro to make our way to the Ginza pick up which was easy to find. We were picked up early and it turned out very awkwardly there was another person with the exact same first and last name as me – that caused a lot of confusion. We hopped on a 40 seater bus and did a few more pick ups before heading to our first stop – Mt Fuji.

Our bus was mostly Americans with some French and a few other nationalities thrown in. Usually I avoid Viator tours for this reason – the travellers on these sorts of things can be very entitled. This group was pretty good though. Our guide was Yabe-San and he did a great job explaining local history and telling us about the area we were driving through.

After about 2.5hrs driving from Tokyo we arrived at Mount Fuji fourth station. There was hardly any traffic going out of Tokyo it up the mountain as today was a government holiday – we paid the return price of that on the way out though!! We couldn’t go up to the highest accessible point by vehicle (fifth station) as it had snowed and the roads weren’t clear. We hopped out here for half an hour and looked at the gorgeous view of the southern alps. I also appropriated a rock….now I have one from Mt Vesuvius and Mt Fuji for my collection!

From here we drove for another hour (lots of bus time on this trip but we were prepared for that) to a Kawagachi lakeside lunch. It was a traditional hot pot style and it was really good, I was happy I paid a bit extra for it to be included.

We then drove for another hour (yep, lots of bus time haha) to go on a Lake Ashi boat cruise. This was only a short cruise of 15 mins but it was really pretty and it got us to the base station for the ropeway.

At Mount Komagatake ropeway we climbed into a cable car and everyone squished in like little sardines. I picked the wrong side so didn’t get a view of Mt Fuji going up.

Once we arrived at the top we realised the fog and clouds had started to come in and unfortunately this meant we couldn’t see Mt Fuji from the look out! Noooooo. Time for cute selfies instead.

We traipsed around a bit at the top and then instead of going up to the shrine, we elected to be first in line to come back down the ropeway to try and get good shots of Mt Fuji that way. Success!

Yabe-san then told us it would be 40 mins to the Odaware Shinkansen station where they dropped us to get a 40 min bullet train back into Tokyo rather than spending 2+ hrs on the bus. Unfortunately 40 mins turned into 90mins as the traffic coming down the mountain was super busy. We eventually got back into Tokyo at 7pm and then had dinner at the same place as last night because the ramen was just so freaking good

Viator trip rating: 3.5/5 the service was excellent but there is SO MUCH driving and you are so rushed in some parts but then in others your wandering around a gift shop for 45 mins. If you want to see Mt Fuji and you can manage 6-7hrs on a bus or train with minimal effort….it’s a winner. I did a lot of research on this tour as I was determined to get out there on my own and it really is just about impossible without a vehicle.

Steps today: only 2382! Lots of sitting on my ass haha

Japanese food eaten: hot pot, Sashimi, katsu sardines, pickles, ramen, revolting sour lollies, pocky

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Japan 2020 day 7: Harajuka, Cafe Ikefukurou and Manneyu onsen in Tokyo

Posted on January 12, 2020 by Mel

Today we enjoyed a sleep in until 9am and then headed off to explore Harajuka which is renowned for its colourful street scape. My goal was to go to Totti Candy Factory and get rainbow fairy floss the size of my head. Goal achieved!

We then walked further down Takeshita Street and spotted a miniature pig cafe with no wait times. Well. I’m not going to say no to tiny pig cuddles.

We walked a little further down in search of Kawaii (cute) Monster Cafe which is one of the many themed cafes they have in Japan. This is not a particularly cheap endeavour with a ¥500 cover charge and the requirement that each person orders one item of food and one drink….but it was awesome as an intro to these whacky cafes!

After lunch we caught a different metro line out to Ikebukuro and went in search of the Ikefukurou Owl Cafe which had positive reviews online in relation to animal treatment and care. I am not really a bird person the the owls made me nervous but B enjoyed giving them pats and one of them decided it really liked him.

My back has been sore on and off for a few day’s (the joys of a crap bed in Osaka combined with a debilitating medical issue) so we went in search of an onsen. I did my research online and discovered Manneyu Onsen in Shinjuku which was very well priced at ¥480 each and was tattoo friendly! This is pretty much unheard of in Japan where I have to cover my tattoos at all times in the baths I get away with bandages about 50% of the time and the other 50% I get asked to leave. They also included a towel in their pricing. I enjoyed a glorious 40 min soak in there with all the locals….naked of course. I have posted before about onsen etiquette but will do another one in a few days once we start using them daily in the snow.

I really, REALLY wanted to go to a local recommendation Champagne & Gyoza for dinner because it combines two of my favourite things and it was a 2 min walk from our hotel. Unfortunately it was closed due to being a Sunday. Instead, we walked a little bit further up to Akasaka Mendokoro Tomo which had the most amazing ramen. The pork was melt in your mouth delicious. They are very small so you use the vending machine to order, sit at the bench while they make it, eat quickly and then vacate. So good.

Steps today: 11500

Japanese food eaten: vending machine coffee and red bull, fairy floss, kawaii cafe themed crazy food, weird Japanese candy and pork ramen!

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Japan 2020 day 6: Osaka to Tokyo on the Shinkansen and dinner at Kobe Beef Kaiseki 511

Posted on January 11, 2020 by Mel

Booking Shinkansen tickets before you arrive in japan has previously been tricky. This is something you want to do a few days beforehand (at least) so you can get good seats – we found the smartEX travel app to be awesome. You need to authorise your credit card on it and make sure you take that card with you to Japan but all we had to do was stick the credit card in a machine and it gave us our tickets (both base fare and reserved seat in one) which we had booked a week in advance! We also made a last minute change to a slightly earlier train with different seats and it was very easy to do in the app.

Be aware of new rules from May 2020 about travelling with luggage, they are cracking down hard on it, especially oversized stuff. Luckily this didn’t impact us, we just got on and stowed our suitcases behind our seats in row 1 – a very good reason to choose the last row in a carriage! The seats are spacious, there are snacks available on board and scenery is awesome even when you fly past at over 250km an hour.

You can buy snacks and bento boxes at the little kiosks before you board the train and on the train, B bought this pork cutlet box for ¥900 before we boarded. I also like the fact that the Shinkansen trains have seated toilets (not squat ones) and lots of leg room at the seats. Something to be aware of is the location of the smoking room on each train – as a non smoker it stinks and the doors opening and closing only contains some of the smell.

Our hotel in Tokyo is in Akasaka (considered a bit of an upmarket district quite close to the city centre) and is a 2 min walk from Akasaka-Mitsuke metro station. The hotel is called Hotel Risveglia Akasaka and I picked it because it was close to the same price as APA hotels but definitely not an APA. We previously stayed in an APA hotel in Tokyo and the room was so small B couldn’t stand up straight or lay on the bed straight! So APA are cheap rooms but not great if you’re 6ft tall. This room is still small – only 16 metres square – but it has enough space to move around in and a full shower. It also has a gloriously SOFT bed! Our room looks over a cute little alleyway.

Dinner tonight was at my favourite restaurant ever in the whole wide world Kobe Beef Kaseiki 511 in Akasaka. I’ll be honest, it’s the main reason we came to Tokyo, It was a 2 min walk from our hotel and it serves some of the best Kobe beef in the world in a degustation format. The ‘511’ in the name of the restaurant comes from their mission to use only the best – A5 grade beef with a beef marbling standard value of 11. As a result of the beef quality, it’s not cheap – about ¥17000 for one person – but it is absolutely amazing food and the service and wine pairing are great.

B says “everytime I come here I think is it worth it…then I eat the steak….and it’s so good”.

Steps taken: 7000 (nap day today!)

Japanese food eaten: pocky, bento box with katsu pork, weird Japanese hot chocolate, Kobe beef and all sorts of other oishii (delicious!) food at A511

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Japan 2020 planning is full steam ahead

Posted on December 23, 2019 by Mel

We leave on Jan 6th from Canberra and arrive in Osaka late on Jan 7th. We had planned to trial the “Murray’s bus” as an option for transit to Sydney this time but with all the bushfires happening here and the accompanying road closures, we have instead decided to fly. We are doing our international legs through AirAsia (once you try their flat beds you’ll never go back) which is awesomely comfortable although it does unfortunately include a few stop overs for extended periods. We are going to try out the SamaSama airport hotel at KLIA2 for the first time this trip – no clearing customs needed!

Fun stuff booked and/or planned so far includes:

Osaka Jan 7-11th

  • Universal Studios – I bought us express line tickets for the flying dinosaur ride hahaha
  • Tempozan Ferris Wheel
  • Kaiyukan Aquarium
  • Tracking down some excellent okonomiyaki places

Tokyo Jan 11-14th

  • Mount Fuji day trip. In winter we may get an amazingly clear day where we have stunning views, or we may get rained out. We are rolling the dice to find out!
  • Dinner at our favourite restaurant in the whole world (so far) Kobe Beef Kaiseki 511
  • A visit to the Harajuka cafe area and possibly trying out monster kawaii cafe
  • Maybe a visit to Disney Sea….I’m still undecided on this

Niseko Jan 14-21st

  • Snow for B man! He plans to go all over the mountain plus a day trip to Rasutsu
  • Onsens and relaxation for me
  • All the ramen and dumplings I can eat

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

January 2020 trip booked – Japan!

Posted on April 22, 2019 by Mel

We are off to Japan again in January 2020! We haven’t been together since Jan 2014 so it should be great fun, the plan is:

  • 4 nights in Osaka to explore a place we haven’t been to and hopefully also go to Universal Studios

  • 3 nights in Tokyo which includes a day trip out to Mt Fuji and dinner at our shared favourite restaurant in the whole world Kobe Beef Kaiseki A511

  • 7 nights in Niseko staying at the snooooow! We are staying at Freedom Inn again which is a gorgeous little lodge near the Hanazono snow base. B will snowboard or ski – he’s undecided at this point – and I will enjoy onsens, massages and relaxation while we are there.

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Day 19: Ueno Zoo and the best food I’ve ever eaten

Posted on January 17, 2014 by Mel

I SAW A POLAR BEAR!! And giant pandas.

20140117-082505.jpg

20140117-082514.jpg

20140117-082522.jpg

20140117-082538.jpg

We got up and headed to Ueno Zoo yesterday. Weather was a bit nicer (not face freezing anyway) and it was a few stops up the metro line. The animals were pretty cute, I was pretty excited about the pandas, polar bear and seals while B made friends with a slow loris and also thought the seals were cute, especially the baby ones.

20140117-082738.jpg

20140117-082751.jpg

20140117-082807.jpg

After a morning at the zoo we went to Ginza where there is a 4 level sony store. B enjoyed geek heaven while my new fluffy friend (from the zoo) and I sat in the pub on level 1 of the shop.

20140117-082913.jpg

After a rest, we were back out searching for this amazing 511 restaurant B has been raving about the entire trip, apparently famous for it’s Kobe beef. It’s down some middle of nowhere alley….difficult to spot….but man once you get inside it is amazing!

20140117-083028.jpg

20140117-083041.jpg

They offer ladies a fluffy blanket to put on your lap or over your shoulders if the aircon is to cold (I thought that was pretty awesome) and I ordered a 6 course meal while B had a 9 course Japanese themed one (lots of fish mixed in which was why I skipped it). We also let the sommelier choose the one which was….the best red I have ever had in my life. Actually, it was the best overall dining experience ever!

20140117-083258.jpg

20140117-083310.jpg

20140117-083320.jpg

20140117-083335.jpg

20140117-083349.jpg

20140117-083359.jpg

As well as a free glass of wine at the start, they gave us a present! A free ramen noodle kit 🙂 I was very impressed.

20140117-083451.jpg

20140117-083457.jpg

Well, that was last night and today is fly home day 😦 we have a few hours of exploring left with no idea what to do then it is off to Tokyo station for the narita airport express train and a 7pm flight back to Sydney, then connecting through to canberra tomorrow. I come home to perth the following day after leaving all my ski stuff in the land of ice and snow (which is apparently in the midst of a heat wave right now….yay).

Time to wake B up and pack the suitcase *waaaah*

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Day 18: Disneyland post 2 and Tokyo Tower

Posted on January 15, 2014 by Mel

Photos (most of them anyway) from Disneyland are in the previous post 🙂

So today we got up early ish at 8am and after a bakery breakfast (B’s favourite kind lol) we headed off to DISNEYLAND! There was a brief discussion of whether we wanted to commit to it because the maximum temp today was meant to be 4C and it was also meant to snow but B was keen and I was…uhhh a little excited….so we went! It was insanely cold. Colder than the snow. I think it’s because in the snow you have all your gear on but walking around in this you have jackets and gloves etc but it’s not the same. The biting cold still gets you.

Our train station is a block away and is on the Disney line so it was an easy 15min trip. When we got there we started walking and then saw the lines. I know they weren’t that bad but they felt like it to us! We were there 20mins before opening and it was already like this:

20140115-205419.jpg

We decided our plan of action was get in, go for space mountain and then work it out from there. Tracey, Kiera and many others had warned us wait times for some rides could be over THREE HOURS, even in winter. When we got to space mountain the wait was 3 mins. Seriously! It was a bit of a let down though. Pirates of the Caribbean was much better (9 min wait) and we also went on splash mountain, star tours and big thunder mountain. We didn’t wait any longer than 10mins but by the last three we had started using their fast pass system which I can’t recommend enough. Basically you go up, get a ticket to ride for an hours time and then go do something else. When that hour is up you can not only get another fast pass for another ride BUT ALSO QUEUE JUMP YOUR CHOSEN RIDE! We got this down pat by the end of the day haha. We also watched the famous parade and I took lots of photos.

By 4pm we were knackered and after some present buying we headed back to the hotel. Unfortunately there were no personalised ears available but I bought Lana a bunch of presents and also got Katie, Braith and my nephew Hunter adorable kiddie ears! See pics of me modelling the adult versions haha:

20140115-205949.jpg

20140115-205954.jpg

I bought myself an adorable fluffy eeyore, he was the only one in the shop.

20140115-210114.jpg

After a half hour rest we headed off to the Tokyo Sky Tree. Originally the plan had been to go to Tokyo Tower but a lot of reading said the sky tree was much more spectacular….but lines could be up to five hours long! We banked on the freezing cold, kids returning to school and middle of the week meaning it wouldn’t be that bad. Good call by us! No lines and no wait. The view and the building are amazing. It is over 450m tall….

20140115-210306.jpg

We went up to the 350m point and did the full 360 degree walk. It was breathtaking, so glad we did it at night.

20140115-210427.jpg

Afterwards we had delicious chocolate treats and looked at all the beautiful lit up trees 🙂

20140115-210509.jpg

20140115-210519.jpg

Tomorrow we are off to the zoo WHERE I WILL GET TO SEE POLAR BEARS!

In case you’re wondering, we only went to Disney land and not Disney sea today for two reasons. Firstly by 4pm we were shattered. Disney sea is open until 8pm but it was so cold and we were so tired by then we just didn’t have it in us. Secondly, having watched the documentary The Cove I had been feeling a little uncomfortable about going there….if you’re not sure what I mean, watch the doco. I am much happier with our decision to go to Ueno Zoo tomorrow instead.

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Day 18: Disneyland post one (photos!)

Posted on January 15, 2014 by Mel

I’ll post more stuff later but here are some photos from Disneyland today. We had a max temp of 3.8C and it was so cold it almost snowed….it’s the coldest I’ve ever been, that includes being out on the snow! However it meant the crowds were relatively small and instead of a 3hr wait our longest ride wait time was 9mins 😀 more talky to come later, for now, photos!

20140115-172802.jpg

20140115-172808.jpg

20140115-172815.jpg

20140115-172821.jpg

20140115-172826.jpg

20140115-172846.jpg

20140115-172854.jpg

20140115-172905.jpg

20140115-172917.jpg

20140115-172946.jpg

20140115-172955.jpg

20140115-173029.jpg

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Day 17: Kyoto to Tokyo (short post)

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Mel

Yaaaaaawn. Travelling is a bit exhausting. Or I am an old lady at heart. Maybe both :p

Today we planned to sleep in but were both awake by 7:30am. We checked out of the hotel, left our luggage and went off to explore Kyoto Imperial Palace and Ginkajuji Temple. Turns out you need a permit to go into the palace annnnnd we certainly didn’t have that. So off to the temple we went, it is known as the silver pavilion but is nowhere as flash as the golden pavilion from the other day. The gardens were beautiful though and the view of Kyoto from above the gardens was also pretty impressive.

20140114-201847.jpg

20140114-201854.jpg

20140114-201906.jpg

Then it was luggage collection and bullet train time! 2hrs 16mins to Tokyo which i read through and B napped/listened to music for. We are only one station away from Tokyo Station (at Hachibori) so although it was a long trek from one part of Tokyo station to another (970m!) the actual train transfer was easy.

When we finally got here and could drop all our bags it was nice to see they had folded pretty paper cranes on our robes 🙂

20140114-202055.jpg

20140114-202101.jpg

We were going to go to Tokyo tower tonight but we are both tired and a bit grumpy from travelling. Especially me, I hate the train stations and how crowded they are. When you have a suitcase people get really narky at you as well – interesting comparison to the UK where at nearly every station people would help or at least look sympathetic when I was faced with huge flights of stairs.

Disneyland in the morning maybe? Max temp here tomorrow is 5C so I’ll let B decide if he’s up for it lol. If not, we can maybe go to the zoo or I’ll go see Mickey on my own! Gotta get them Mickey Mouse ears for Lana and Hunter….

Categories: Japan Snow Trip | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Blog at WordPress.com.