Posts Tagged With: naples

Day 25: in transit from Naples to Paris 

Our first part of the day consisted of terrifying taxi rides (very good price in Naples – 20€ from Toledo to the airport) through the insane traffic. Then very loooooong lines as they had overbooked the Air France flight and were transferring some pissed off passengers…one at a time…to the later flight. All the passengers being transferred seemed to be Americans of a certain age demographic so we assumed a cruise ship had docked late. 

Eventually, we made it through the check in and both got to enjoy the fruits of duty free shopping:

  
Not to mention the scenery as we flew across Switzerland to Paris!

 

the bay of naples

  
 

coming in to Paris

We then caught the RER B and linked to metro line 14 to our hotel and rapidly reached the conclusion we will not be doing that on the way BACK to the airport. Not only did it cost 26€, it was horrendous in peak hour with luggage. I think the hotels transfer service will be the go. The hotel here (Wilson Opera by Elegencia) is pretty freaking fabulous. The bed is so comfy! And finally, a decent showerhead! Not to mention staff who recommend some great local restaurants. 

They recommended Le Carré for dinner and it was amazing. Not the cheapest place (we are certainly not paying Naples pricing anymore) but beautiful food and great service. 

 

Bs lamb shoulder

  

my AMAZING steak and potato

  

a chocolate ball full of chocoalte mousse and white choc…guess who had this dessert?!

  

mmmm apple sorbet inside a white chocolate surround

 
We were going to go for a walk and sight see but we are both knackered and it is raining so….early to bed tonight.

Tomorrow: lunch at the Eiffel Tower and exploring the catacombs!

Mel

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Leaving Italy – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome. Venice and Naples):
– B says the CT trail was amazing and a definite must do. I have to admit even just going between villages on the ferry, the views were stunning. The regional wine is also pretty fab!

  
– Florence is still one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to. B asked me to add that the pastries in Florence are delicious! Breakfast every day is an adventure. 

– Climb the bell tower in Florence (not the Duomo, which is crowded and terrifying) as well as the facade in Siena. Both have amazing views of the surrounding city and countryside. Breathtaking. 

– Venice was amazing and a must see. In particular we went on a gondolier trip with the most amazing gentleman. He only charged us 120€ for almost an hour, gave a running commentary, took about 90 photos of us and also directed us to a supermarket so we could bring our own wine, no hassles! Can not recommend him enough, you can find him at this location: 

  
– The restaurant we went to on the first night in Rome (see pics on the day 19 post ) was unbelievably good! Well done Rome. It’s also amazing to walk around all these old ruins and constructions and see just how detailed they were. Something we just can’t do in Australia really! We were so lucky with the weather.

– The food we had in Naples was amazing and cheap, definitely less tourist pricing here than in other areas we visited. Loved the local colour we had by staying in Toledo, although it could be a little overwhelming at times. 
Not-so-good stuff about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome, Venice and Naples):

– The goddam tourists in CT were horrendous and we were pretty much in off season. I know, I know…I’m a tourist too! But I mean the absolute masses of people that were just behaving like inconsiderate muppets. Blocking entrances, shoving to get photos, not moving for other people, causing huge delays on the paths by refusing to allow people to pass them….argh. I love the intrepid travel “responsible travel” ideal but I’m not quite sure how supporting this element of CT falls into that category! To be fair, we did stay in a local town and supported small business with our accommodation choice and restaurant options however. 

– Still not a huge fan of Pisa, very over-rated in my opinion. All very gimmicky and it is 18€ just to climb the tower! Which we didn’t do….although Percy may have tried hehehe 

  
– Everywhere we have been in Europe there are a lot of smokers. Being Australian, where it is rapidly becoming less common, we struggle with the smell, the constant ignorance of no smoking signs and just the rudeness of it as there is no consideration for others when they blow smoke in your face. Since we have both been unwell travelling through Italy (interesting how both times I’ve been to Europe, I have ended up with a very nasty chest infection…hmmm) the prolific smoking has become something we both identified as a turn off for us here. 

– Other than the gondolier (mentioned above), the really good restaurant and the amazing scenery…unfortunately not much was good about the people/service in Venice. The hotel management and staff were absolutely appalling (worst review I have ever left on trip advisor), staff in the attractions were rude and don’t even get me started on the baggage check guy! Gah. I know Italy has a certain reputation but Venice takes the cake in that regard. 

– I still maintain the Vatican museum in Rome is the most overrated tourist experience ever. I refused to go this time around and B did, he shared my sentiments. 

– Naples traffic. Holy crap. All the things you read online are NOT an exaggeration. It’s literally every person for themselves and it is terrifying…this gives you a 50 second example of some of it: http://youtu.be/7gYa-gdy22I

– B wants me to add that he has named Italy the land of scaffolding, smoking and shit service. Ha! 

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Day 23: Pompeii and climbing Mt Vesuvius 

Today was a good day. Exhausting though! We started by catching the metro into the central station and attempting to meet our Viator tour guide. Her directions were pretty good (holy crap Naples traffic is terrifying) and we were able to find the van with minimal issues. 

Off we went to Pompeii. I was loving the small tour vibe (6 people) right up until we were combined with another group. From a cruise ship. Gah. We then had headsets to follow the guide around Pompeii with. Double gah. We followed the tour for all of…7 minutes before ditching them and going to explore on our own, which we thought was fine since we had been given a nominated meeting point to return to. Seems like we reeeeally offended the tour guide though! We were in the bad books for awhile after that. 

 

just chilling…

  

i bet the romans thought “what a nice view of that lovely mountain”

  

sitting in a field surrounded by ruins…

  

beautiful

  

percy loved pompeii

  
 

Lunch was included in the viator tour, a giant pizza and soft drink. Then it was back on the (now giant) bus and off to Mt Vesuvius! Very exciting. We arrived in the upper car park and were given 30 mins to walk up, 20 to explore and 20 to walk back down. 

It’s a mountain. Not an easy walk! Very steep! REALLY STEEP! So, for anyone who is considering it some things to note include:

  1. It’s about 2kms from the car park up to the top 
  2. It’s steep pretty much the whole way, there is very few breaks or stopping points
  3. It’s a volcano so…sand and rocks. Be prepared with your shoes
  4. There are two bars on the way up where you can stop for water, souvenirs or wine. My postcard is from the very, very top!
  5. It’s worth it….the view over Naples and being at the top of an active volcano is wow….

 

view over naples

  

a very proud Percy (and me!) at the TOP of Mt Vesuvius

  

looking into the crater, yep thats smoke

Then it was dinner time at another local place in Naples. It’s very non-touristy here which is great because there’s no tourists but makes it hard to eat when you don’t speak italian! We went to another local eatery (Trattoria Toledo) where we had some communication issues but the food was pretty delish

 

amazing local wine (yes that is an empty bottle lol), delicious mixed entree, gnocchi for B and grilled chicken for me, mixed veg as a side

 
Now? We are listening to Hamish and Andy “the race that slows a nation” to see which horse suit won! And drinking wine 🙂

Mel
P.S. Laundry update: nope, no such thing as a self service laundromat in Naples. Since I REFUSE to pay 3€ to launder one item of clothing our room is now covered in semi damp, sink washed shirts. 

P.P.S. For those considering Naples…it’s an interesting experience. Not tourist friendly at all, which can be nice but can also be confusing. Italian service is pretty much what we have come to expect though *shudder* 

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Day 22: The Colosseum, The Vatican and Naples

More Rome exploring today. After a late night because a school group checked in to Hotel Stella (I will admit, I took great pleasure in slamming our hotel room door at least 17 times at 7am this morning…) we were off to the Colosseum! We explored both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum in the morning, beating the majority of the crowds. 
   
  

roman forum

   

ripped my 3/4 leggings so having to pair loose pants with joggers….ever the fashion icon! Haha

 

Then we caught the metro (with a line change, gah) to the Vatican Museum. That took about 40 mins for anyone planning this as a future option. B had pre bought his ticket and I had opted to skip it altogether since I have been before and walk down the street to Castel Sant’Angelo. B thought “the Vatican Museum was kinda cool with all its art and stuff but the Sistine Chapel was significantly underwhelming”. He didn’t go to the St Peter’s Basilica as the line was ginormous. 
 

cool statue

  

pretty ceiling (not the sistine chapel, he ignored my request for a sneaky pic!)

 
My experience at the castle was a bit of a fail, beautiful to look at but apparently closed on Mondays…although their website doesn’t say that! On the plus side, I had time to go to the post office and send postcards to the Donaldson clan and B’s mum. 

 

panorama of the castle

  

bridge near the castle (i walked over this last time i was here! there is a photo of Percy hanging out with the castle in yhe background waaaaay back on my blog)

   

Instead of castle exploring, I sat in the shade and read a travel swap book while eating gelato. Two of my favourite things combined 🙂

  
We met up again and spent an hour people watching near the Spanish Steps, the guys trying to rip people off with “free” flowers are absolutely fascinating. At 5pm it was off to Naples! The train ride this time had been pre booked months ago and we must have scored a higher class as there was free chips and wine. I was a happy camper.

  
Our hotel here (Hotel Toledo) is three stops on the metro out of the central area and seems to have a lot of local character. Dinner was delicious at Pizza e Baba. 

 

entree: mozarella and prosciutto (my go to entree now) with local wine, napoli pizza and risotto

 
Laying in bed now with the window wide open I can hear restaurant owners shouting, children playing and lots of scooters honking as they zoom up and down the cobblestones. Lovely.

Steps today: 28000! Crazy

Tomorrow: POMPEII!!!

Mel

P.S. Apparently self service laundromats are not a thing in Naples. Seriously. Google supports this, lots of other equally confused bloggers out there too. Just hand washed all my travel knickers in the sink (they are made for that but I have been lazy and had a backlog) and we are sniff testing our shirts….

6 more sleeps to my birthday! 

Categories: Europe 2015 | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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