Posts Tagged With: france

Day 30: last day in Paris 

After our packing attempts (glad we didn’t buy too many presents and souvenirs) we left our luggage at the hotel and set out for a walking adventure. 

We started at the Arc de Triomphe, set in the middle of that completely crazy roundabout with no lane markings and TWELVE entry/exit points.

  
We then ambled down Avenue des Champs-Élysées, looking in the crazy expensive stores at things like 500€ things from Luis Vuitton and 61000€ rings from Tiffany and Co. 

  
I bought some AMAZING macarons from Pierre Hermes. They were unbelievably good, even B liked them and he’s not usually a macaron fan. We both declared lemon to the the best.

i am keeping the box!

We then continued our walk through the Christmas festival set up at the bottom of the champs-élysées and into the park.

no more macarons! Finished off while sitting on a park bench

 
We walked all the way down to the Musee Louvre (4kms in total) which was closed as it was Tuesday, but still very photo-worthy. 

 

the “other” arc

  
   
We are now chilling in the lounge at B Montmartre Hotel waiting for our private transfer to the airport. Not going to lie, the prospect of 30+ hours ahead in airports is somewhat misery-inducing….but getting to lay in my bed at the end is a little exciting! 🙂

Thank you for a lovely visit Europe, it’s been wonderful. 

Mel

P.S. Special mention about the fricking amazing weather! Out of 30ish days travelling we have only had 3 with consistent rain….and only one where I actually needed my raincoat….absolutely unbelievable at this time of year 😀

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Leaving Paris – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Paris:
– the views of different old style buildings and amazing monuments pretty much everywhere you go, particularly good old effy (great nick name for the Eiffel Tower right?) is very impressive. Sunsets and night time in particular have been stunning here while we have visited….I think we have been very lucky with the weather though! 20C in mid-November seems to be unheard of. 

   
 
– the metro, ah I love being back in a major city with a crazy efficient metro system! 

– food OMNOMNOMNOM FRENCH FOOD IS THE BESTEST! Especially their cheese. The wine as well….fab!

  
– the fact that right in the centre of Paris (2 min walk from the Eiffel Tower) they were using sheep to keep the grass under control as part of an eco friendly approach. Awesome. 

  
   

Not-so-good stuff about Paris:

– the service and peoples manners! Gah. Paris staffing and service levels leave a lot to be desired. Especially at the Eiffel Tower, that really put a dampener on our adventure to the top. 

– the hordes of tourists everywhere, particularly Chinese tourists, who are rude and pushy. No worries about being a tourist (after all, I’m a tourist!) but there should be some basic courtesies that we as human beings display in crowded situations…I strongly feel this should include things like not blocking walkways so you can chat to the person next to you, sticking your elbows in someone’s face or pushing in to very long lines! 

– the scammers and hawkers, this was particularly prevalent on both our trips to the Eiffel Tower sadly and was very frustrating. It happened everywhere we went in Europe but in Paris they travelled in packs. I had not had any warning that the fake petition girls were pickpocket gangs and was glad we worked it out quickly. B took to shouting “pickpocket” when they tried to talk to him which was hilarious and I just gave them vacant stares every time they talked to me. We were also VERY lucky not to have to deal with the African gangs of string men, who by all accounts can be extremely aggressive and scary. I’m glad we managed to avoid that experience! 

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Day 29: Sunset at Sacre Coeur and dinner at Le Coq Rico

Today we went and bought me a lovely new hand luggage suitcase as we have realised that all our beautiful glassware from Murano in Venice will HAVE to go in the overhead compartment from Dubai to Sydney as we have exit row seats. Given how fragile it is, a soft backpack isn’t going to work. Hooray! I got to buy a lovely new hard shell carry on, which I have been wanting for awhile.

After our luggage finding adventures, we used UberX to head up to Sacre Coeur (a cathedral at the top of the Montmartre district) to watch the sunset over the city. Note: very hard to get up there without a car or a very steep, unpleasant walk up lots of narrow steps. I highly recommend uber or a taxi, very cheap. The other thing to keep in mind is that there are African gangs running “string man scams” halfway up those steps and there are extremely aggressive by all accounts. They operate in groups of 4-8 and will just take your money out of your wallet.  My laziness probably saved us from being mugged! 

It was just stunning to watch the sky change colour. 

 

sacre couer basilica

  
    
  

soooo much colour in the sky

  
  

B’a photo over some buildings nearby

  

the lights of the city as the sun fades away

 
Dinner was at Le Coq Rico which is a 10 minute walk (downhill, thankfully) from Sacre Coeur, I booked this place  about a month ago when I started reading over and over how good their chicken is. Here’s an example of a review: http://luckypeach.com/atlas/pierre-herme/ so I was pretty excited for omnomnommy chicken. The couple behind us in line had read lots of reviews as well. We went with a soup starter, a half chicken between us (two quarters), seasoned vegetables, macaroni cheese and salad. For dessert we had the local floating island. 

 

excellent wine recommendation by the waiter

  

the starter of creamy chicken soup with goat cheese and chicken fried balls was DELICIOUS

   

Our thoughts? The starter and dessert were delicious, the wine suggested by the waiter was reasonably priced (note that there are no really cheap options on this wine menu) and very tasty. The chicken was okay. Not sure it is rave worthy though! Overall, an excellent meal and we enjoyed people watching the couple on the date next to us. She was much keener than he was haha. 

Mel 

Tomorrow: packing, checking out of the hotel, a final day in Paris and then off to the airport for a late night flight. Home in a few days (Thursday lunch time, AEDT). 
 

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Day 28: Turning 30! A picnic at the Eiffel Tower, dinner cruise on the Seine and Moulin Rouge 

After a leisurely wake up (I resisted the urge to yell WAKE UP WAKE UP IT IS MY BIRTHDAY WAKE UP at 5am) we went on a mysterious Eiffel Tower birthday picnic adventure.

 We arrived at a spot down one end of the Champs de Mars and B had arranged for a guy (Australian!) from Paris Picnics to meet us with bags containing Chardonnay, cold meats, different cheeses, salad, fruit, a baguette and cookies. We even got a picnic rug….it was AMAZING! Delicious as well.

   
  

It was a wonderful experience. Big birthday brownie points for B! The card he got me was beautiful and I almost cried like a big sookie-lala. The sun even came out for pretty much the entire picnic so we spent an enjoyable couple of hours eating, cuddling and people watching. According to Facebook, it seems that at least 40 people were waiting for B to propose….lol. Good thing I wasn’t one of them then 🙂

After some resting time at the hotel (to digest all that food) it was time to get all fancied up for our dinner cruise on the Seine River and Moulin Rouge show. I booked this months ago with Paris Tours and we have both been looking forward to it for quite awhile. We got all dressed up with B in a lovely collared shirt and chinos (wow…not jeans) and me in my blue galaxy maxi from black milk and wearing my Murano glass bracelet from Venice.

   
   

The cruise was lovely, with delicious dinner service and some beautiful views out the windows.

    
   

Our driver took us on a tour of Montmarte before the cabaret show and we are both now very excited to visit Sacre Couer cathedral tomorrow and eat famous chicken in a restaurant nearby. Beautiful area! Amazing city views. 

Moulin Rouge was fabulous. The performance, the dancing, the free bottle of champagne (which I drank 90% of….weeeee!), the mini ponies and just all of it was brilliant! B’s only minor comment was that as we are so crammed in it gets a bit uncomfortable. So be prepared. Even with good tickets, you are basically a sardine.

   
  

What a fabulous 30th birthday I have had! 

Thank you my love 🙂 and thank you to all my friends and family who sent their best wishes via text, email and Facebook.

Sorry for trolling you on Facebook Lana hehe. It was fun though! 

Mel 

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Day 27: Versailles, Minipalais, first time using Uber and Mel declares war on the (crappy) Hotel WO by Elegancia 

Versailles was very pretty! We caught the RER B line out which took about an hour and were there bright and early. 
Mel’s top tips for Versailles:

– use the toilet at McDonalds opposite the train station when you arrive. There are very few at the palace 

– pre book your entry ticket to avoid the first line. We were veeeery lucky and there was no second line for entry at all today, which seeks to be unusual. We did have a smart ass security guy try to convince us our ticket (all in French) said admission only after 1pm. He almost got his eyes gouged out by a very annoyed Mel before laughing at us and letting us through. 

– be prepared for shuffle shuffle shuffle once you get in. It wasn’t even busy today and I still had to shove through quite a few sections. Chinese tourists with their selfie sticks were driving me crazy! 

– the gardens are gorgeous but November is a bit late to see them in their glory. Disappointingly, all of the statues were covered and fountains off as well.

   
    
    
 

After Versailles, we returned to Paris to deal with what I am calling “the hotel war”. Really, it was more a case of a crappy hotel managing to hit EVERY trigger I have and unleashing angry-panda-Mel. She was not happy. 

The rooms at Hotel WO by Elegencia are unbearably hot. There is no climate control, despite what the hotel website claims. On the first night we both suffered through it but on the second it was even worse so I opened the window. Yay cool air! Unfortunately we were at street level though so the noise was terrible. After about 1.5hrs sleep overnight in 10 min intervals I went down to reception at 6am to ask what they could do. The nice man said no worries it will be cooler on the top floor, we will shift you up once you come back from your Versailles visit. 

Came back. No nice man to be seen, some other ladies on reception who knew nothing about this. They informed me the climate control was switched off in the whole hotel and we couldn’t change rooms. To which I responded along the lines of (I’ll let you imagine my tone here…after two nights of minimal sleep and 4.5 weeks away from home) we will check out then. 

  

Half an hour later they rang us to begrudgingly offer a room one floor up. B said nope, bugger that, we are done. They seemed genuinely surprised. 

So, we found another hotel about 10mins walk away for a very reasonable price, checked out and arranged to refund the last few nights from the other place (mmmm we shall see if that actually comes through) and now we are in a beautiful attic room of a small hotel (B Montparte) with NO traffic noise. The room temperature is normal. I might actually get some sleep tonight! Happy.

After a brief nap time, we were off for a pre birthday dinner at Le Minipalais. I was feeling much refreshed and really looking forward to this! It’s a really nice restaurant inside the Grand Palais. Before dinner we went for a wander along the Seine and watched the Eiffel Tower light up. Lovely. 

  
Dinner started with some excellent white wine. 

  
The starters of prawns and some kind of magical fried pork ball were very tasty. For mains B had salmon and I had chicken breast and basically what was carbonara gnocchi. It was really interesting because seperately each thing on our plate was a bit meh but once you started combinging them, you could see where this place gets its reputation from. 

  
Dessert was a chocolate ball full of mousse, they tip hot chocolate over it so you have access. Mmmm chocolate ball. I may have made eye contact with the “I only speak French” waiter while imitating a moose…antlers and all….awkward. 

  
On the way home we used UberX, which is a first for me! Figures I would try it for the first time in a foreign country. I was VERY impressed and can’t wait to try it when we get home to Canberra. Only 8.24€ for a 20 min trip and he arrived within 30 secs of me hitting the “request” button. 

Mel

Steps today: Wow, 21104

ONE MORE SLEEP! Tomorrow is my 30th birthday! Eeeeeeeee. 

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Day 26: Paris – the Eiffel Tower and Catacombs (also known as “Mel versus snails”)

The morning started relatively late (9am) with a wander from a nearby metro stop to the Eiffel Tower. Very pretty on approach!

   
 
Unfortunately, the up close climbing experience wasn’t so great! We had booked for lunch at 58 Tour Eiffel which is a restaurant on the 1st floor, this allows you to skip the line for the tickets (which was massive). That part was fab and we made it to the restaurant easily. The food was quite good although you were crammed in like sardines and they were trying to get service through pretty damn quick – about what I would expect really for a place like this. We had a fabulous view and the restaurant photographer took some lovely shots of us that u had printed out. 

After lunch we tried to get the lift up to level 2. After endless laps trying to locate it, we asked the restaurant for help and got a shrug. Then we found what we thought was it and the lift operator said yes, go in…but the lift doors didn’t open. Went back down to find out why and he laughed and told us to take the stairs. Mmmmm. 

There is 347 stairs from level 1 to level 2 of the Eiffel Tower. I know that now for a fact. I feel bad for the people with small children and in wheelchairs who would not have been able to manage stairs.

On level 2, the signs for the ticket machines were non existent so there was more wandering about until finally I could purchase summit tickets….then more lining up….but eventually we made it! Unlike 2012, there was no fog this time! 

   
 

Our comments about the Eiffel Tower:

Mel – too many people, so much rubbish around and the pickpockets were prolific. Terrible staff service really off putting. 

B says – give climbing it a miss and enjoy the wonderful view of it from other parts of the city. 

After our tower adventure, we caught the metro to the nearest metro stop to the  Catacombs for a brief rest (with French McFlurry’s) before our Catacombs tour. We booked in with Fat Tyre Tours based on my dads suggestion. Pretty glad we did as at 4pm on a drizzly November afternoon the line to get in was still around 3 hrs long!

percy’s first trip to the catacombs

No line for us though. We had an excellent 1.5hr guided tour through the winding, narrow corridors where the bones of 6 million people are buried around 35m below Paris.

   

lots of very narrow and spooky walkways

   
   
 

After a rest at the hotel, it was dinner time again. I think dinner time is my favourite time in Paris…so much good food. Tonight we went to Mollard and I ate escargot. In their shells! Here’s some actin shots of me attempting to conquer my fear of snails by eating them:

 

Mel versus snail – the epic battle


The food was very tasty and the wine came in an adorable baby wine bottle! Limited food pics tonight as I got distracted but B recommends the salmon and duck. 

  
Mel

P.S. Two more sleeps until I’m an old lady! 

P.P.S. Versailles tomorrow, looking forward to that. Hopefully the drizzling rain will abate for our visit. 

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Day 25: in transit from Naples to Paris 

Our first part of the day consisted of terrifying taxi rides (very good price in Naples – 20€ from Toledo to the airport) through the insane traffic. Then very loooooong lines as they had overbooked the Air France flight and were transferring some pissed off passengers…one at a time…to the later flight. All the passengers being transferred seemed to be Americans of a certain age demographic so we assumed a cruise ship had docked late. 

Eventually, we made it through the check in and both got to enjoy the fruits of duty free shopping:

  
Not to mention the scenery as we flew across Switzerland to Paris!

 

the bay of naples

  
 

coming in to Paris

We then caught the RER B and linked to metro line 14 to our hotel and rapidly reached the conclusion we will not be doing that on the way BACK to the airport. Not only did it cost 26€, it was horrendous in peak hour with luggage. I think the hotels transfer service will be the go. The hotel here (Wilson Opera by Elegencia) is pretty freaking fabulous. The bed is so comfy! And finally, a decent showerhead! Not to mention staff who recommend some great local restaurants. 

They recommended Le Carré for dinner and it was amazing. Not the cheapest place (we are certainly not paying Naples pricing anymore) but beautiful food and great service. 

 

Bs lamb shoulder

  

my AMAZING steak and potato

  

a chocolate ball full of chocoalte mousse and white choc…guess who had this dessert?!

  

mmmm apple sorbet inside a white chocolate surround

 
We were going to go for a walk and sight see but we are both knackered and it is raining so….early to bed tonight.

Tomorrow: lunch at the Eiffel Tower and exploring the catacombs!

Mel

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Leaving the South of France – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Carcassonne, Provence and Nice:
– the food was absolutely unbelievable…so amazingly good! Arles in particular was a real standout although Nice had some very nice food once you were able to avoid the expensive touristy places 

– there’s no such thing as bad wine. Seriously. Even a 2.70€ bottle from the supermarket is nice! House wine can be as little as 2€ a glass as well and the best by is you can buy 1/2 a litre of wine for yourself at a restaurant and nobody minds 

– lazing on the beach with cocktails was a nice break from doing “stuff” while we were in Nice 

– there are some stunning villages and locations in these region, some of them (like Gordes) I had never heard of. I am so glad I got to see them! 

Not-so-good stuff about Carcassonne, Provence and Nice:

– as it is pretty much off season now (they don’t seem to have a shoulder season), we suffered a lot in this area because of the lack of other tourists. At least half (if not 75%) of the restaurants were closed and the bloody bus and train timetables had all changed but there were no signs up. This led to a few stuff ups, including one that cost us 70€ as we had to get a taxi to meet our private tour guide on time or forfeit what we had already paid for that tour.

– French service leaves a lot to be desired, I almost walked out of shops multiple times as they are quite happy to completely ignore you and talk to their friends, file their nails or just keep chatting aimlessly away to other people…people not buying stuff…it was physically hard not to scream “just take my fricking money” at times 

– We stayed in a lot of places where the owners spoke English but they would refuse to do so and spoke back to you in French. Didn’t really bother me until someone was trying to complain (rightfully) about a double charge and the hotel owner suddenly couldn’t speak English anymore…hmmmm….

another plus: as the wind was so cold i got to wear my very european scarf!

 

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Day 13: visiting Eze and lazing on the beach of the French Riviera 

Beautiful weather here, 20C and very sunny. The warmest we have come across so far so definitely a shorts day – woohoo! 
Today was a free day (no tour leader to help us!) and we started off travelling as a group to the medieval village of Eze. This involved a tram and a local bus but we managed it with a team effort. We all then wandered around the local fort/castle which was very pretty but basically a giant hotel. Some of us found the lookout point but most of us didn’t (I was included with the latter mob) and then our groups split up. B and I headed back to Nice with another group member while the others stayed to walk some of the local trails.

 

exploring the medieval castle/hotel at Eze

  

the purple flowers Eze is famous for

 
After a tasty lunch at Hard Rock Cafe where I added to my glass collection, we headed down to the beach and paid the extortionate 10€ each to snag a sun lounger and enjoy a siesta + cocktails. As expensive as it was….it was pretty freaking nice to just laze in the sunshine and drink. 

 

lazing on the beach in Nice

  

people in the water were crazy, it wasnt that warm!

 
Tonight’s dinner: a picnic down on the promenade! Should be delicious 

Mel

P.S. Head cold is progressing from sore throat and feeling achey all over to just snot. So much snot and congestion and snot. Pharmacies here are useless (different laws mean no good drugs without a script) so all I have is strepsils and some nasal spray. 
P.P.S. Percy had a great day today:

 

percy loved his mango and banana cocktail

  

laaaaazy

 

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Day 12: Nice! (The location, not the adjective) 

After an included breakfast at the hotel (where I ate my body weight in baguettes again…French bread is tasty) we headed off for a day of train riding. From Arles to Marseille was about an hour, then we had a lunch stopover at the train station followed by another 2 hours on the train to Nice. 

After arriving, we walked to our hotel and had an hour of downtime before going on an orientation tour of Nice. The sunset views from the lookout point and the old castle were pretty amazing, an iPhone doesn’t do them justice.
   
    
   
Then it was off to dinner at Taca d’oli which was absolutely amazing. B calls it as equal to the delicious casserole we had the other night in terms of taste and when you add in the spotless service…we might have a winner so far on the trip!

 

Bs entree of octopus salad. and my stuffed. veggies

  

my main of amazingly tender roast beef and gnocchi, B had two types of fish on a skewer

 
Tomorrow: exploring the village of Eze and then relaxing on the “beach” here in Nice, assuming my head cold (thanks sick people on our tour) eases up 

Mel

Note: wifi is crap at our hotel here so will check in again in a few days when we reach Cinque Terre!

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