Posts Tagged With: Europe

Day 31: it’s all over! Summary of Percy’s adventure 

From Dubai airport business lounge, waiting for our flight to Sydney….yep, it’s pretty much all over. No more bottles of wine with dinner every night. No more exploring buildings 1000+ years old. No more living out of an osprey bag and hand washing my undies every 3 days (that one is not so so bad haha). 

To summarise, here are some of Percy’s adventures from this trip. In 31 days he has visited (although not had a photo in every place) quite a few different locations:

  • Barcelona
  • Montserrat 
  • Ribes de Freser (Spanish Pyrenees)
  • Nuria Valley (Spanish Pyrenees)
  • Carcassonne 
  • Provence Region (based in Arle)
  • Nice 
  • Cinque Terre (based in La Spezia)
  • Pisa
  • Florence
  • Siena 
  • Rome
  • Venice 
  • Naples
  • Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius
  • Paris 
  • Versailles 

Phew!!

 

oooooh emirates…fancy

  

hanging out at Mont Juic castle in barcelona

  

cable car overlooking barcelona

  

nap time after Montserrat

  

boozehound

  

travelling by train to the spanish pyrenees, there was a lot of train rides this trip and percy made an excellent pillow

  

Nuria Valley

  

doing washing in Arles

  

alcholic playypus loved the red wine in Arles

  

the most delicious cocktail at hard rock cafe In Nice

  

lounging around on the french riviera

  

a beautiful evening boat ride of Potrovenere

  

looking out into the mediterranean sea at Cinque Terre

  

standard tourist photo in pisa

  

the collosseum in rome

  

visiting pompeii

  

wooooo we climbed to the top of mt vesuvius

  

catacombs in paris

  

ooooooh shiny…versailles

  

picnic at the eiffel tower

 

Percy is very happy to be heading home to his comfortable bed. He has had a fabulous time! 

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Day 30: last day in Paris 

After our packing attempts (glad we didn’t buy too many presents and souvenirs) we left our luggage at the hotel and set out for a walking adventure. 

We started at the Arc de Triomphe, set in the middle of that completely crazy roundabout with no lane markings and TWELVE entry/exit points.

  
We then ambled down Avenue des Champs-Élysées, looking in the crazy expensive stores at things like 500€ things from Luis Vuitton and 61000€ rings from Tiffany and Co. 

  
I bought some AMAZING macarons from Pierre Hermes. They were unbelievably good, even B liked them and he’s not usually a macaron fan. We both declared lemon to the the best.

i am keeping the box!

We then continued our walk through the Christmas festival set up at the bottom of the champs-élysées and into the park.

no more macarons! Finished off while sitting on a park bench

 
We walked all the way down to the Musee Louvre (4kms in total) which was closed as it was Tuesday, but still very photo-worthy. 

 

the “other” arc

  
   
We are now chilling in the lounge at B Montmartre Hotel waiting for our private transfer to the airport. Not going to lie, the prospect of 30+ hours ahead in airports is somewhat misery-inducing….but getting to lay in my bed at the end is a little exciting! 🙂

Thank you for a lovely visit Europe, it’s been wonderful. 

Mel

P.S. Special mention about the fricking amazing weather! Out of 30ish days travelling we have only had 3 with consistent rain….and only one where I actually needed my raincoat….absolutely unbelievable at this time of year 😀

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Day 29: Sunset at Sacre Coeur and dinner at Le Coq Rico

Today we went and bought me a lovely new hand luggage suitcase as we have realised that all our beautiful glassware from Murano in Venice will HAVE to go in the overhead compartment from Dubai to Sydney as we have exit row seats. Given how fragile it is, a soft backpack isn’t going to work. Hooray! I got to buy a lovely new hard shell carry on, which I have been wanting for awhile.

After our luggage finding adventures, we used UberX to head up to Sacre Coeur (a cathedral at the top of the Montmartre district) to watch the sunset over the city. Note: very hard to get up there without a car or a very steep, unpleasant walk up lots of narrow steps. I highly recommend uber or a taxi, very cheap. The other thing to keep in mind is that there are African gangs running “string man scams” halfway up those steps and there are extremely aggressive by all accounts. They operate in groups of 4-8 and will just take your money out of your wallet.  My laziness probably saved us from being mugged! 

It was just stunning to watch the sky change colour. 

 

sacre couer basilica

  
    
  

soooo much colour in the sky

  
  

B’a photo over some buildings nearby

  

the lights of the city as the sun fades away

 
Dinner was at Le Coq Rico which is a 10 minute walk (downhill, thankfully) from Sacre Coeur, I booked this place  about a month ago when I started reading over and over how good their chicken is. Here’s an example of a review: http://luckypeach.com/atlas/pierre-herme/ so I was pretty excited for omnomnommy chicken. The couple behind us in line had read lots of reviews as well. We went with a soup starter, a half chicken between us (two quarters), seasoned vegetables, macaroni cheese and salad. For dessert we had the local floating island. 

 

excellent wine recommendation by the waiter

  

the starter of creamy chicken soup with goat cheese and chicken fried balls was DELICIOUS

   

Our thoughts? The starter and dessert were delicious, the wine suggested by the waiter was reasonably priced (note that there are no really cheap options on this wine menu) and very tasty. The chicken was okay. Not sure it is rave worthy though! Overall, an excellent meal and we enjoyed people watching the couple on the date next to us. She was much keener than he was haha. 

Mel 

Tomorrow: packing, checking out of the hotel, a final day in Paris and then off to the airport for a late night flight. Home in a few days (Thursday lunch time, AEDT). 
 

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Day 26: Paris – the Eiffel Tower and Catacombs (also known as “Mel versus snails”)

The morning started relatively late (9am) with a wander from a nearby metro stop to the Eiffel Tower. Very pretty on approach!

   
 
Unfortunately, the up close climbing experience wasn’t so great! We had booked for lunch at 58 Tour Eiffel which is a restaurant on the 1st floor, this allows you to skip the line for the tickets (which was massive). That part was fab and we made it to the restaurant easily. The food was quite good although you were crammed in like sardines and they were trying to get service through pretty damn quick – about what I would expect really for a place like this. We had a fabulous view and the restaurant photographer took some lovely shots of us that u had printed out. 

After lunch we tried to get the lift up to level 2. After endless laps trying to locate it, we asked the restaurant for help and got a shrug. Then we found what we thought was it and the lift operator said yes, go in…but the lift doors didn’t open. Went back down to find out why and he laughed and told us to take the stairs. Mmmmm. 

There is 347 stairs from level 1 to level 2 of the Eiffel Tower. I know that now for a fact. I feel bad for the people with small children and in wheelchairs who would not have been able to manage stairs.

On level 2, the signs for the ticket machines were non existent so there was more wandering about until finally I could purchase summit tickets….then more lining up….but eventually we made it! Unlike 2012, there was no fog this time! 

   
 

Our comments about the Eiffel Tower:

Mel – too many people, so much rubbish around and the pickpockets were prolific. Terrible staff service really off putting. 

B says – give climbing it a miss and enjoy the wonderful view of it from other parts of the city. 

After our tower adventure, we caught the metro to the nearest metro stop to the  Catacombs for a brief rest (with French McFlurry’s) before our Catacombs tour. We booked in with Fat Tyre Tours based on my dads suggestion. Pretty glad we did as at 4pm on a drizzly November afternoon the line to get in was still around 3 hrs long!

percy’s first trip to the catacombs

No line for us though. We had an excellent 1.5hr guided tour through the winding, narrow corridors where the bones of 6 million people are buried around 35m below Paris.

   

lots of very narrow and spooky walkways

   
   
 

After a rest at the hotel, it was dinner time again. I think dinner time is my favourite time in Paris…so much good food. Tonight we went to Mollard and I ate escargot. In their shells! Here’s some actin shots of me attempting to conquer my fear of snails by eating them:

 

Mel versus snail – the epic battle


The food was very tasty and the wine came in an adorable baby wine bottle! Limited food pics tonight as I got distracted but B recommends the salmon and duck. 

  
Mel

P.S. Two more sleeps until I’m an old lady! 

P.P.S. Versailles tomorrow, looking forward to that. Hopefully the drizzling rain will abate for our visit. 

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Day 25: in transit from Naples to Paris 

Our first part of the day consisted of terrifying taxi rides (very good price in Naples – 20€ from Toledo to the airport) through the insane traffic. Then very loooooong lines as they had overbooked the Air France flight and were transferring some pissed off passengers…one at a time…to the later flight. All the passengers being transferred seemed to be Americans of a certain age demographic so we assumed a cruise ship had docked late. 

Eventually, we made it through the check in and both got to enjoy the fruits of duty free shopping:

  
Not to mention the scenery as we flew across Switzerland to Paris!

 

the bay of naples

  
 

coming in to Paris

We then caught the RER B and linked to metro line 14 to our hotel and rapidly reached the conclusion we will not be doing that on the way BACK to the airport. Not only did it cost 26€, it was horrendous in peak hour with luggage. I think the hotels transfer service will be the go. The hotel here (Wilson Opera by Elegencia) is pretty freaking fabulous. The bed is so comfy! And finally, a decent showerhead! Not to mention staff who recommend some great local restaurants. 

They recommended Le Carré for dinner and it was amazing. Not the cheapest place (we are certainly not paying Naples pricing anymore) but beautiful food and great service. 

 

Bs lamb shoulder

  

my AMAZING steak and potato

  

a chocolate ball full of chocoalte mousse and white choc…guess who had this dessert?!

  

mmmm apple sorbet inside a white chocolate surround

 
We were going to go for a walk and sight see but we are both knackered and it is raining so….early to bed tonight.

Tomorrow: lunch at the Eiffel Tower and exploring the catacombs!

Mel

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Leaving Italy – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome. Venice and Naples):
– B says the CT trail was amazing and a definite must do. I have to admit even just going between villages on the ferry, the views were stunning. The regional wine is also pretty fab!

  
– Florence is still one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to. B asked me to add that the pastries in Florence are delicious! Breakfast every day is an adventure. 

– Climb the bell tower in Florence (not the Duomo, which is crowded and terrifying) as well as the facade in Siena. Both have amazing views of the surrounding city and countryside. Breathtaking. 

– Venice was amazing and a must see. In particular we went on a gondolier trip with the most amazing gentleman. He only charged us 120€ for almost an hour, gave a running commentary, took about 90 photos of us and also directed us to a supermarket so we could bring our own wine, no hassles! Can not recommend him enough, you can find him at this location: 

  
– The restaurant we went to on the first night in Rome (see pics on the day 19 post ) was unbelievably good! Well done Rome. It’s also amazing to walk around all these old ruins and constructions and see just how detailed they were. Something we just can’t do in Australia really! We were so lucky with the weather.

– The food we had in Naples was amazing and cheap, definitely less tourist pricing here than in other areas we visited. Loved the local colour we had by staying in Toledo, although it could be a little overwhelming at times. 
Not-so-good stuff about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome, Venice and Naples):

– The goddam tourists in CT were horrendous and we were pretty much in off season. I know, I know…I’m a tourist too! But I mean the absolute masses of people that were just behaving like inconsiderate muppets. Blocking entrances, shoving to get photos, not moving for other people, causing huge delays on the paths by refusing to allow people to pass them….argh. I love the intrepid travel “responsible travel” ideal but I’m not quite sure how supporting this element of CT falls into that category! To be fair, we did stay in a local town and supported small business with our accommodation choice and restaurant options however. 

– Still not a huge fan of Pisa, very over-rated in my opinion. All very gimmicky and it is 18€ just to climb the tower! Which we didn’t do….although Percy may have tried hehehe 

  
– Everywhere we have been in Europe there are a lot of smokers. Being Australian, where it is rapidly becoming less common, we struggle with the smell, the constant ignorance of no smoking signs and just the rudeness of it as there is no consideration for others when they blow smoke in your face. Since we have both been unwell travelling through Italy (interesting how both times I’ve been to Europe, I have ended up with a very nasty chest infection…hmmm) the prolific smoking has become something we both identified as a turn off for us here. 

– Other than the gondolier (mentioned above), the really good restaurant and the amazing scenery…unfortunately not much was good about the people/service in Venice. The hotel management and staff were absolutely appalling (worst review I have ever left on trip advisor), staff in the attractions were rude and don’t even get me started on the baggage check guy! Gah. I know Italy has a certain reputation but Venice takes the cake in that regard. 

– I still maintain the Vatican museum in Rome is the most overrated tourist experience ever. I refused to go this time around and B did, he shared my sentiments. 

– Naples traffic. Holy crap. All the things you read online are NOT an exaggeration. It’s literally every person for themselves and it is terrifying…this gives you a 50 second example of some of it: http://youtu.be/7gYa-gdy22I

– B wants me to add that he has named Italy the land of scaffolding, smoking and shit service. Ha! 

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Day 23: Pompeii and climbing Mt Vesuvius 

Today was a good day. Exhausting though! We started by catching the metro into the central station and attempting to meet our Viator tour guide. Her directions were pretty good (holy crap Naples traffic is terrifying) and we were able to find the van with minimal issues. 

Off we went to Pompeii. I was loving the small tour vibe (6 people) right up until we were combined with another group. From a cruise ship. Gah. We then had headsets to follow the guide around Pompeii with. Double gah. We followed the tour for all of…7 minutes before ditching them and going to explore on our own, which we thought was fine since we had been given a nominated meeting point to return to. Seems like we reeeeally offended the tour guide though! We were in the bad books for awhile after that. 

 

just chilling…

  

i bet the romans thought “what a nice view of that lovely mountain”

  

sitting in a field surrounded by ruins…

  

beautiful

  

percy loved pompeii

  
 

Lunch was included in the viator tour, a giant pizza and soft drink. Then it was back on the (now giant) bus and off to Mt Vesuvius! Very exciting. We arrived in the upper car park and were given 30 mins to walk up, 20 to explore and 20 to walk back down. 

It’s a mountain. Not an easy walk! Very steep! REALLY STEEP! So, for anyone who is considering it some things to note include:

  1. It’s about 2kms from the car park up to the top 
  2. It’s steep pretty much the whole way, there is very few breaks or stopping points
  3. It’s a volcano so…sand and rocks. Be prepared with your shoes
  4. There are two bars on the way up where you can stop for water, souvenirs or wine. My postcard is from the very, very top!
  5. It’s worth it….the view over Naples and being at the top of an active volcano is wow….

 

view over naples

  

a very proud Percy (and me!) at the TOP of Mt Vesuvius

  

looking into the crater, yep thats smoke

Then it was dinner time at another local place in Naples. It’s very non-touristy here which is great because there’s no tourists but makes it hard to eat when you don’t speak italian! We went to another local eatery (Trattoria Toledo) where we had some communication issues but the food was pretty delish

 

amazing local wine (yes that is an empty bottle lol), delicious mixed entree, gnocchi for B and grilled chicken for me, mixed veg as a side

 
Now? We are listening to Hamish and Andy “the race that slows a nation” to see which horse suit won! And drinking wine 🙂

Mel
P.S. Laundry update: nope, no such thing as a self service laundromat in Naples. Since I REFUSE to pay 3€ to launder one item of clothing our room is now covered in semi damp, sink washed shirts. 

P.P.S. For those considering Naples…it’s an interesting experience. Not tourist friendly at all, which can be nice but can also be confusing. Italian service is pretty much what we have come to expect though *shudder* 

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Day 22: The Colosseum, The Vatican and Naples

More Rome exploring today. After a late night because a school group checked in to Hotel Stella (I will admit, I took great pleasure in slamming our hotel room door at least 17 times at 7am this morning…) we were off to the Colosseum! We explored both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum in the morning, beating the majority of the crowds. 
   
  

roman forum

   

ripped my 3/4 leggings so having to pair loose pants with joggers….ever the fashion icon! Haha

 

Then we caught the metro (with a line change, gah) to the Vatican Museum. That took about 40 mins for anyone planning this as a future option. B had pre bought his ticket and I had opted to skip it altogether since I have been before and walk down the street to Castel Sant’Angelo. B thought “the Vatican Museum was kinda cool with all its art and stuff but the Sistine Chapel was significantly underwhelming”. He didn’t go to the St Peter’s Basilica as the line was ginormous. 
 

cool statue

  

pretty ceiling (not the sistine chapel, he ignored my request for a sneaky pic!)

 
My experience at the castle was a bit of a fail, beautiful to look at but apparently closed on Mondays…although their website doesn’t say that! On the plus side, I had time to go to the post office and send postcards to the Donaldson clan and B’s mum. 

 

panorama of the castle

  

bridge near the castle (i walked over this last time i was here! there is a photo of Percy hanging out with the castle in yhe background waaaaay back on my blog)

   

Instead of castle exploring, I sat in the shade and read a travel swap book while eating gelato. Two of my favourite things combined 🙂

  
We met up again and spent an hour people watching near the Spanish Steps, the guys trying to rip people off with “free” flowers are absolutely fascinating. At 5pm it was off to Naples! The train ride this time had been pre booked months ago and we must have scored a higher class as there was free chips and wine. I was a happy camper.

  
Our hotel here (Hotel Toledo) is three stops on the metro out of the central area and seems to have a lot of local character. Dinner was delicious at Pizza e Baba. 

 

entree: mozarella and prosciutto (my go to entree now) with local wine, napoli pizza and risotto

 
Laying in bed now with the window wide open I can hear restaurant owners shouting, children playing and lots of scooters honking as they zoom up and down the cobblestones. Lovely.

Steps today: 28000! Crazy

Tomorrow: POMPEII!!!

Mel

P.S. Apparently self service laundromats are not a thing in Naples. Seriously. Google supports this, lots of other equally confused bloggers out there too. Just hand washed all my travel knickers in the sink (they are made for that but I have been lazy and had a backlog) and we are sniff testing our shirts….

6 more sleeps to my birthday! 

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Day 19: Rome!

Off to Rome today! We caught the bullet train (300km an hour) direct to Roma Termini which took about an hour and a half. Our hotel is very close to the train station. New pet hate: street sellers who put things into your lap and then tell you to pay for it…or push it into your hands while touching you. Mel’s solution: it alternates between dropping the item on the floor, shoving back, or shouting NO BUGGER OFF loudly and in a very off putting way. Success varies for all methods. 
We have done a bit of a sneaky and are room sharing with someone tomorrow night. We will be in Venice but still have the room for the luggage and to save checking out and back in the next day…so to save her spending her last night in a crappy hostel, we are loaning her the room key on the sly. Sneeeeaky. Very Australian! Haha.

We started our first afternoon in Rome with a walking tour courtesy of our intrepid leader, it was a very long tour! We started at the Spanish Steps which unfortunately were closed for works, but from the side you can hardly tell (lol) and the best part of this photo was no tourists on them!

  
We then visited a bakery that makes the best Tiramasu in Italy (apparently) and B gave it a big thumbs up.

  

That was the point where Andrea (our leader) told us he would take us to the three best gelato places in Rome so we could compare. Pretty sure it was meant to be a joke but I took him literally….

 

gelato place 1: il gelato disan crispo.

  

gelato place 2: Grom

  

gelato number 3: Fatamorgana

 

The verdict? I thought number one was best but number three was a close contender.

Aside from gelato, we also explored some well  known sites in Rome including the Trevi fountain, Piazza Novona, a number of cathedrals, the Pantheon, the Parliament, the colloseum and others. We saw a political protest which was pretty cool. It was a beautiful warm afternoon wandering in the sun and a nice cool evening. 

 

parliament

  

Piaza Novona

  

this is a pretty picture taken at last light near the palace

  

  

trevi fountain (under renovation so only the top part)

 
  

After our walk, we had a short rest and then it was off to our final dinner with our intrepid group. We did the whole envelope/card tip collection thing on the sly and Andrea (Andy!) was happy. The food at Hostaria da Vincenzo was delicious and very well priced, I highly recommend it.

 

prosciutto and mozzarella

  

veal for both mains omnomnom

  

lemon meringue pie and a dessert that started with M and had two double L’s in it!

  

limoncello to finish

 
We finished this feast with a leisurely walk back to the hotel and lots of goodbyes. There were hugs. I’m a terrible hugger dammit. 

Steps today: 22571

Kilometres: 15.6kms

Tomorrow: VENICE! Looking forward to a romantic gondala ride with my special someone 🙂 

  

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Day 18: Siena 

Off to explore Siena today! Our tour leader bought our bus tickets and helped us catch the bus there (about an hour from Florence, very easy to do) and then gave us a little tour, including the main square. 

 
  

We were then left to our own devices with a return bus timetable and prepaid tickets. First ofF, we paid 12€ to explore all the parts of the cathedral and climb the facade. The views were beautiful from the top, overlooking both Siena and Tuscany. Damn all those stairs though! We were very lucky the rain cleared for about an hour and not only did we get the stunning view, we also got to go all the way to the top for the first time that day. 

   
    

 Lunch was another delicious Italian food experience at San Desiderio Ristorante near the back of the cathedral. B had penne with pork ragout and I had amazing braised beef. With drinks and a service charge it was only 30€ so not bad for such a touristy area.   
 
We then explored inside the cathedral and museum, which had a beautiful stained glass window from around 1200 AD that had been preserved during the war and never moved back to the church. The building itself is huge and is one of the largest cathedrals in Italy. 

   
   
On the way out, we stopped and bought me some lovey Italian boots (yay!) as the weather is starting to get consistently wetter now and it was always my plan to buy a decent pair of ankle boots at this point in the trip rather than lug them around up to now. 

We caught the bus back to Florence easily enough and had dinner at the Centrale Mercato with two other members of our tour….again. Can not recommend it enough….the pasta….omnomnom. 

Tomorrow: Rome! The farewell dinner for our intrepid group is tomorrow 😦 it will be back to travelling with just us until we come back in two weeks. We still have Rome, Venice, Naples and Paris to go. 

Mel

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