Day 27: Versailles, Minipalais, first time using Uber and Mel declares war on the (crappy) Hotel WO by Elegancia 

Versailles was very pretty! We caught the RER B line out which took about an hour and were there bright and early. 
Mel’s top tips for Versailles:

– use the toilet at McDonalds opposite the train station when you arrive. There are very few at the palace 

– pre book your entry ticket to avoid the first line. We were veeeery lucky and there was no second line for entry at all today, which seeks to be unusual. We did have a smart ass security guy try to convince us our ticket (all in French) said admission only after 1pm. He almost got his eyes gouged out by a very annoyed Mel before laughing at us and letting us through. 

– be prepared for shuffle shuffle shuffle once you get in. It wasn’t even busy today and I still had to shove through quite a few sections. Chinese tourists with their selfie sticks were driving me crazy! 

– the gardens are gorgeous but November is a bit late to see them in their glory. Disappointingly, all of the statues were covered and fountains off as well.

   
    
    
 

After Versailles, we returned to Paris to deal with what I am calling “the hotel war”. Really, it was more a case of a crappy hotel managing to hit EVERY trigger I have and unleashing angry-panda-Mel. She was not happy. 

The rooms at Hotel WO by Elegencia are unbearably hot. There is no climate control, despite what the hotel website claims. On the first night we both suffered through it but on the second it was even worse so I opened the window. Yay cool air! Unfortunately we were at street level though so the noise was terrible. After about 1.5hrs sleep overnight in 10 min intervals I went down to reception at 6am to ask what they could do. The nice man said no worries it will be cooler on the top floor, we will shift you up once you come back from your Versailles visit. 

Came back. No nice man to be seen, some other ladies on reception who knew nothing about this. They informed me the climate control was switched off in the whole hotel and we couldn’t change rooms. To which I responded along the lines of (I’ll let you imagine my tone here…after two nights of minimal sleep and 4.5 weeks away from home) we will check out then. 

  

Half an hour later they rang us to begrudgingly offer a room one floor up. B said nope, bugger that, we are done. They seemed genuinely surprised. 

So, we found another hotel about 10mins walk away for a very reasonable price, checked out and arranged to refund the last few nights from the other place (mmmm we shall see if that actually comes through) and now we are in a beautiful attic room of a small hotel (B Montparte) with NO traffic noise. The room temperature is normal. I might actually get some sleep tonight! Happy.

After a brief nap time, we were off for a pre birthday dinner at Le Minipalais. I was feeling much refreshed and really looking forward to this! It’s a really nice restaurant inside the Grand Palais. Before dinner we went for a wander along the Seine and watched the Eiffel Tower light up. Lovely. 

  
Dinner started with some excellent white wine. 

  
The starters of prawns and some kind of magical fried pork ball were very tasty. For mains B had salmon and I had chicken breast and basically what was carbonara gnocchi. It was really interesting because seperately each thing on our plate was a bit meh but once you started combinging them, you could see where this place gets its reputation from. 

  
Dessert was a chocolate ball full of mousse, they tip hot chocolate over it so you have access. Mmmm chocolate ball. I may have made eye contact with the “I only speak French” waiter while imitating a moose…antlers and all….awkward. 

  
On the way home we used UberX, which is a first for me! Figures I would try it for the first time in a foreign country. I was VERY impressed and can’t wait to try it when we get home to Canberra. Only 8.24€ for a 20 min trip and he arrived within 30 secs of me hitting the “request” button. 

Mel

Steps today: Wow, 21104

ONE MORE SLEEP! Tomorrow is my 30th birthday! Eeeeeeeee. 

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Day 26: Paris – the Eiffel Tower and Catacombs (also known as “Mel versus snails”)

The morning started relatively late (9am) with a wander from a nearby metro stop to the Eiffel Tower. Very pretty on approach!

   
 
Unfortunately, the up close climbing experience wasn’t so great! We had booked for lunch at 58 Tour Eiffel which is a restaurant on the 1st floor, this allows you to skip the line for the tickets (which was massive). That part was fab and we made it to the restaurant easily. The food was quite good although you were crammed in like sardines and they were trying to get service through pretty damn quick – about what I would expect really for a place like this. We had a fabulous view and the restaurant photographer took some lovely shots of us that u had printed out. 

After lunch we tried to get the lift up to level 2. After endless laps trying to locate it, we asked the restaurant for help and got a shrug. Then we found what we thought was it and the lift operator said yes, go in…but the lift doors didn’t open. Went back down to find out why and he laughed and told us to take the stairs. Mmmmm. 

There is 347 stairs from level 1 to level 2 of the Eiffel Tower. I know that now for a fact. I feel bad for the people with small children and in wheelchairs who would not have been able to manage stairs.

On level 2, the signs for the ticket machines were non existent so there was more wandering about until finally I could purchase summit tickets….then more lining up….but eventually we made it! Unlike 2012, there was no fog this time! 

   
 

Our comments about the Eiffel Tower:

Mel – too many people, so much rubbish around and the pickpockets were prolific. Terrible staff service really off putting. 

B says – give climbing it a miss and enjoy the wonderful view of it from other parts of the city. 

After our tower adventure, we caught the metro to the nearest metro stop to the  Catacombs for a brief rest (with French McFlurry’s) before our Catacombs tour. We booked in with Fat Tyre Tours based on my dads suggestion. Pretty glad we did as at 4pm on a drizzly November afternoon the line to get in was still around 3 hrs long!

percy’s first trip to the catacombs

No line for us though. We had an excellent 1.5hr guided tour through the winding, narrow corridors where the bones of 6 million people are buried around 35m below Paris.

   

lots of very narrow and spooky walkways

   
   
 

After a rest at the hotel, it was dinner time again. I think dinner time is my favourite time in Paris…so much good food. Tonight we went to Mollard and I ate escargot. In their shells! Here’s some actin shots of me attempting to conquer my fear of snails by eating them:

 

Mel versus snail – the epic battle


The food was very tasty and the wine came in an adorable baby wine bottle! Limited food pics tonight as I got distracted but B recommends the salmon and duck. 

  
Mel

P.S. Two more sleeps until I’m an old lady! 

P.P.S. Versailles tomorrow, looking forward to that. Hopefully the drizzling rain will abate for our visit. 

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Day 25: in transit from Naples to Paris 

Our first part of the day consisted of terrifying taxi rides (very good price in Naples – 20€ from Toledo to the airport) through the insane traffic. Then very loooooong lines as they had overbooked the Air France flight and were transferring some pissed off passengers…one at a time…to the later flight. All the passengers being transferred seemed to be Americans of a certain age demographic so we assumed a cruise ship had docked late. 

Eventually, we made it through the check in and both got to enjoy the fruits of duty free shopping:

  
Not to mention the scenery as we flew across Switzerland to Paris!

 

the bay of naples

  
 

coming in to Paris

We then caught the RER B and linked to metro line 14 to our hotel and rapidly reached the conclusion we will not be doing that on the way BACK to the airport. Not only did it cost 26€, it was horrendous in peak hour with luggage. I think the hotels transfer service will be the go. The hotel here (Wilson Opera by Elegencia) is pretty freaking fabulous. The bed is so comfy! And finally, a decent showerhead! Not to mention staff who recommend some great local restaurants. 

They recommended Le Carré for dinner and it was amazing. Not the cheapest place (we are certainly not paying Naples pricing anymore) but beautiful food and great service. 

 

Bs lamb shoulder

  

my AMAZING steak and potato

  

a chocolate ball full of chocoalte mousse and white choc…guess who had this dessert?!

  

mmmm apple sorbet inside a white chocolate surround

 
We were going to go for a walk and sight see but we are both knackered and it is raining so….early to bed tonight.

Tomorrow: lunch at the Eiffel Tower and exploring the catacombs!

Mel

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Leaving Italy – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome. Venice and Naples):
– B says the CT trail was amazing and a definite must do. I have to admit even just going between villages on the ferry, the views were stunning. The regional wine is also pretty fab!

  
– Florence is still one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to. B asked me to add that the pastries in Florence are delicious! Breakfast every day is an adventure. 

– Climb the bell tower in Florence (not the Duomo, which is crowded and terrifying) as well as the facade in Siena. Both have amazing views of the surrounding city and countryside. Breathtaking. 

– Venice was amazing and a must see. In particular we went on a gondolier trip with the most amazing gentleman. He only charged us 120€ for almost an hour, gave a running commentary, took about 90 photos of us and also directed us to a supermarket so we could bring our own wine, no hassles! Can not recommend him enough, you can find him at this location: 

  
– The restaurant we went to on the first night in Rome (see pics on the day 19 post ) was unbelievably good! Well done Rome. It’s also amazing to walk around all these old ruins and constructions and see just how detailed they were. Something we just can’t do in Australia really! We were so lucky with the weather.

– The food we had in Naples was amazing and cheap, definitely less tourist pricing here than in other areas we visited. Loved the local colour we had by staying in Toledo, although it could be a little overwhelming at times. 
Not-so-good stuff about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome, Venice and Naples):

– The goddam tourists in CT were horrendous and we were pretty much in off season. I know, I know…I’m a tourist too! But I mean the absolute masses of people that were just behaving like inconsiderate muppets. Blocking entrances, shoving to get photos, not moving for other people, causing huge delays on the paths by refusing to allow people to pass them….argh. I love the intrepid travel “responsible travel” ideal but I’m not quite sure how supporting this element of CT falls into that category! To be fair, we did stay in a local town and supported small business with our accommodation choice and restaurant options however. 

– Still not a huge fan of Pisa, very over-rated in my opinion. All very gimmicky and it is 18€ just to climb the tower! Which we didn’t do….although Percy may have tried hehehe 

  
– Everywhere we have been in Europe there are a lot of smokers. Being Australian, where it is rapidly becoming less common, we struggle with the smell, the constant ignorance of no smoking signs and just the rudeness of it as there is no consideration for others when they blow smoke in your face. Since we have both been unwell travelling through Italy (interesting how both times I’ve been to Europe, I have ended up with a very nasty chest infection…hmmm) the prolific smoking has become something we both identified as a turn off for us here. 

– Other than the gondolier (mentioned above), the really good restaurant and the amazing scenery…unfortunately not much was good about the people/service in Venice. The hotel management and staff were absolutely appalling (worst review I have ever left on trip advisor), staff in the attractions were rude and don’t even get me started on the baggage check guy! Gah. I know Italy has a certain reputation but Venice takes the cake in that regard. 

– I still maintain the Vatican museum in Rome is the most overrated tourist experience ever. I refused to go this time around and B did, he shared my sentiments. 

– Naples traffic. Holy crap. All the things you read online are NOT an exaggeration. It’s literally every person for themselves and it is terrifying…this gives you a 50 second example of some of it: http://youtu.be/7gYa-gdy22I

– B wants me to add that he has named Italy the land of scaffolding, smoking and shit service. Ha! 

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Day 24: chilling out in Naples

Today started very late…11am in fact. Ah, glorious sleep in. We missed the hotel breakfast so wandered down the shopping strip near us (Via Toledo) looking for food. 

 

wandering down Via Toledo

 
On the way down, B spotted a castle (oooh look a castle, can we go there?) so we went off down a side road where we found a delicious cafeteria. Full of food it was on to the castle!

Castel Nuovo is on the marina and very grim and overbearing. We paid to go in which was a bit of a waste, the best views of it were certainly from outside.

 

Castel Nouvo

  
  

view from halfway up one of the towers on the castle

 
We then spotted the hop on, hop off city sight seeing bus. Generally I have avoided these as I think 20€ per person is a rip off…however in Naples we have found ourselves in the unusual situation where the metro does not take you to tourist destinations. 

  
We were also feeling particularly lazy today so a bus that took you to the sightseeing locations was a very attractive offer! We did line B first and the coastal views over Naples were amazing.

  

    
 
We then took Line A which was about the internal stops. Just to see the crazy driving alone was worth it…phew! 

 

pretty churches and lots of local piazas

  

some of the more creative local graffitti and political protest signage

   
After a stop back at the hotel, it was off to dinner. Another local eatery just off Via Toledo called Antica Trattoria da Pepino and it was very tasty and well priced. Dessert was at a gelaterias just down the road. 

 

mozarella and prosciutto, cannelloni for me, seafood risotto for B and DELISH gelato

 
Tomorrow: off to Paris! We are braving a Naples taxi (heard terrible things, will see how it goes) to get to the airport as the metro + the airport bus will take close to 2hrs in peak hour and a taxi is 15 mins. PARIS!!

Mel

4 more sleeps until my 30th birthday! 

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Day 23: Pompeii and climbing Mt Vesuvius 

Today was a good day. Exhausting though! We started by catching the metro into the central station and attempting to meet our Viator tour guide. Her directions were pretty good (holy crap Naples traffic is terrifying) and we were able to find the van with minimal issues. 

Off we went to Pompeii. I was loving the small tour vibe (6 people) right up until we were combined with another group. From a cruise ship. Gah. We then had headsets to follow the guide around Pompeii with. Double gah. We followed the tour for all of…7 minutes before ditching them and going to explore on our own, which we thought was fine since we had been given a nominated meeting point to return to. Seems like we reeeeally offended the tour guide though! We were in the bad books for awhile after that. 

 

just chilling…

  

i bet the romans thought “what a nice view of that lovely mountain”

  

sitting in a field surrounded by ruins…

  

beautiful

  

percy loved pompeii

  
 

Lunch was included in the viator tour, a giant pizza and soft drink. Then it was back on the (now giant) bus and off to Mt Vesuvius! Very exciting. We arrived in the upper car park and were given 30 mins to walk up, 20 to explore and 20 to walk back down. 

It’s a mountain. Not an easy walk! Very steep! REALLY STEEP! So, for anyone who is considering it some things to note include:

  1. It’s about 2kms from the car park up to the top 
  2. It’s steep pretty much the whole way, there is very few breaks or stopping points
  3. It’s a volcano so…sand and rocks. Be prepared with your shoes
  4. There are two bars on the way up where you can stop for water, souvenirs or wine. My postcard is from the very, very top!
  5. It’s worth it….the view over Naples and being at the top of an active volcano is wow….

 

view over naples

  

a very proud Percy (and me!) at the TOP of Mt Vesuvius

  

looking into the crater, yep thats smoke

Then it was dinner time at another local place in Naples. It’s very non-touristy here which is great because there’s no tourists but makes it hard to eat when you don’t speak italian! We went to another local eatery (Trattoria Toledo) where we had some communication issues but the food was pretty delish

 

amazing local wine (yes that is an empty bottle lol), delicious mixed entree, gnocchi for B and grilled chicken for me, mixed veg as a side

 
Now? We are listening to Hamish and Andy “the race that slows a nation” to see which horse suit won! And drinking wine 🙂

Mel
P.S. Laundry update: nope, no such thing as a self service laundromat in Naples. Since I REFUSE to pay 3€ to launder one item of clothing our room is now covered in semi damp, sink washed shirts. 

P.P.S. For those considering Naples…it’s an interesting experience. Not tourist friendly at all, which can be nice but can also be confusing. Italian service is pretty much what we have come to expect though *shudder* 

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Day 22: The Colosseum, The Vatican and Naples

More Rome exploring today. After a late night because a school group checked in to Hotel Stella (I will admit, I took great pleasure in slamming our hotel room door at least 17 times at 7am this morning…) we were off to the Colosseum! We explored both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum in the morning, beating the majority of the crowds. 
   
  

roman forum

   

ripped my 3/4 leggings so having to pair loose pants with joggers….ever the fashion icon! Haha

 

Then we caught the metro (with a line change, gah) to the Vatican Museum. That took about 40 mins for anyone planning this as a future option. B had pre bought his ticket and I had opted to skip it altogether since I have been before and walk down the street to Castel Sant’Angelo. B thought “the Vatican Museum was kinda cool with all its art and stuff but the Sistine Chapel was significantly underwhelming”. He didn’t go to the St Peter’s Basilica as the line was ginormous. 
 

cool statue

  

pretty ceiling (not the sistine chapel, he ignored my request for a sneaky pic!)

 
My experience at the castle was a bit of a fail, beautiful to look at but apparently closed on Mondays…although their website doesn’t say that! On the plus side, I had time to go to the post office and send postcards to the Donaldson clan and B’s mum. 

 

panorama of the castle

  

bridge near the castle (i walked over this last time i was here! there is a photo of Percy hanging out with the castle in yhe background waaaaay back on my blog)

   

Instead of castle exploring, I sat in the shade and read a travel swap book while eating gelato. Two of my favourite things combined 🙂

  
We met up again and spent an hour people watching near the Spanish Steps, the guys trying to rip people off with “free” flowers are absolutely fascinating. At 5pm it was off to Naples! The train ride this time had been pre booked months ago and we must have scored a higher class as there was free chips and wine. I was a happy camper.

  
Our hotel here (Hotel Toledo) is three stops on the metro out of the central area and seems to have a lot of local character. Dinner was delicious at Pizza e Baba. 

 

entree: mozarella and prosciutto (my go to entree now) with local wine, napoli pizza and risotto

 
Laying in bed now with the window wide open I can hear restaurant owners shouting, children playing and lots of scooters honking as they zoom up and down the cobblestones. Lovely.

Steps today: 28000! Crazy

Tomorrow: POMPEII!!!

Mel

P.S. Apparently self service laundromats are not a thing in Naples. Seriously. Google supports this, lots of other equally confused bloggers out there too. Just hand washed all my travel knickers in the sink (they are made for that but I have been lazy and had a backlog) and we are sniff testing our shirts….

6 more sleeps to my birthday! 

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Day 21: Venice back to Rome! 

Venice was very pretty and well worth a visit. We are very glad we made the effort to come! Romance capital for the win 🙂 It was stunning to see in the beautiful sunshine and we have gotten unbelievably lucky with the weather….sunny and relatively warm (high teens, low twenties) the whole time. 

 

the rialto bridge

   
We spent our morning wandering the side streets, taking photos and purchasing some amazing Murano glass for the house (and presents for people!).

 

B bought himself a cuttlefish. Yep. A cuttlefish! We also bought some elephants haha i like those a lot!

  

The same glass horse i saw in 2012! Unfortunately no glass blowing demo this time

 

Then we caught the vaporetto back to the train station and it was another 4hr train trip back to Rome. The train trips aren’t so bad now as they seem less crowded (goodbye tourist season) and we have both just been napping and listening to Hamish and Andy podcasts to pass the time. The trains here have snack cars:

italian twisties! Hehe

We arrived back in Rome and tried to get up to the view point above Spagna station to see the sunset, unfortunately directions in the subway were terrible and we took the wrong exit and missed it. Oh well, that’s something to come back for another time!

Dinner was at “Steak House” near the Roma Termini station. Very good. Not so much traditional Italian as slabs of meat but B was chuffed to have a steak and I loved my chicken with mushrooms. Now we are drinking chianti and watching Italian dubbed funniest home videos in the hotel room.

 

entree: prosciutto and mozarella (addictive), mains: steak with creamy peppercorn sauce and chicken with mushrooms, dessert: apple pie!

 
 Tomorrow: a day of touristing (the colloseum and the Vatican for B/a castle or park walk for me) and then off to Naples in the evening 👍

One week exactly until I turn the big 3-0! The countdown begins. 

Mel 

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Day 20: Venice 

Today we went to Venice! It was a bit of a last minute decision as we hadn’t planned on it in our itinerary but B has never been so we opted to sacrifice 1.5 days of our 3.5 days in Rome to experience the romance capital together. We booked the train tickets earlier this week with the help of our intrepid leader and I found some accommodation actually ON the island. Yippie!

After a long express train ride (3hrs 50mins) where we experienced the joy of an Italian family eating a full on picnic in the seats next to us…with literally a suitcase full of food…we arrived in Venetia Saint Lucia which is the Venice port train station. It was then a 30 minute vaporetto (water bus) ride through the canals to the hotel. 

   
 

After some check in hassles (note: ALWAYS have your passports with you in Europe!!) we were able to get into our room and explore the city. We started with Saint Marks square and going up in the tower. Amazing view! 

   
 

We then went on a gondala ride! Great experience that you have to at least try when in Venice. Our gondala guide was awesome as not only did we get the history but he also let us bring a bottle of wine with no hassles…and no charge. B has actually let me post a super special photo this time around….he is in it! Sort of.
 

  

gorgeous canal photo

  

Rialto Bridge!

  
 

After the gondala ride (and sharing a full bottle of Chianti!) we went to 6342 A Le Tol Pizzeria which was a fair walk away from the hotel but AMAZING food. We were first in line when it opened and got the only unreserved table! Excellent value with all this + table charges and water only 40€. I am so full I can’t move now. 

deep fried mozarella and mushrooms

calzoni for B

 

pizza for me…delish!

  

Very happy with our decision to come to Venice at short notice – high 5 to us!

Mel  

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Day 19: Rome!

Off to Rome today! We caught the bullet train (300km an hour) direct to Roma Termini which took about an hour and a half. Our hotel is very close to the train station. New pet hate: street sellers who put things into your lap and then tell you to pay for it…or push it into your hands while touching you. Mel’s solution: it alternates between dropping the item on the floor, shoving back, or shouting NO BUGGER OFF loudly and in a very off putting way. Success varies for all methods. 
We have done a bit of a sneaky and are room sharing with someone tomorrow night. We will be in Venice but still have the room for the luggage and to save checking out and back in the next day…so to save her spending her last night in a crappy hostel, we are loaning her the room key on the sly. Sneeeeaky. Very Australian! Haha.

We started our first afternoon in Rome with a walking tour courtesy of our intrepid leader, it was a very long tour! We started at the Spanish Steps which unfortunately were closed for works, but from the side you can hardly tell (lol) and the best part of this photo was no tourists on them!

  
We then visited a bakery that makes the best Tiramasu in Italy (apparently) and B gave it a big thumbs up.

  

That was the point where Andrea (our leader) told us he would take us to the three best gelato places in Rome so we could compare. Pretty sure it was meant to be a joke but I took him literally….

 

gelato place 1: il gelato disan crispo.

  

gelato place 2: Grom

  

gelato number 3: Fatamorgana

 

The verdict? I thought number one was best but number three was a close contender.

Aside from gelato, we also explored some well  known sites in Rome including the Trevi fountain, Piazza Novona, a number of cathedrals, the Pantheon, the Parliament, the colloseum and others. We saw a political protest which was pretty cool. It was a beautiful warm afternoon wandering in the sun and a nice cool evening. 

 

parliament

  

Piaza Novona

  

this is a pretty picture taken at last light near the palace

  

  

trevi fountain (under renovation so only the top part)

 
  

After our walk, we had a short rest and then it was off to our final dinner with our intrepid group. We did the whole envelope/card tip collection thing on the sly and Andrea (Andy!) was happy. The food at Hostaria da Vincenzo was delicious and very well priced, I highly recommend it.

 

prosciutto and mozzarella

  

veal for both mains omnomnom

  

lemon meringue pie and a dessert that started with M and had two double L’s in it!

  

limoncello to finish

 
We finished this feast with a leisurely walk back to the hotel and lots of goodbyes. There were hugs. I’m a terrible hugger dammit. 

Steps today: 22571

Kilometres: 15.6kms

Tomorrow: VENICE! Looking forward to a romantic gondala ride with my special someone 🙂 

  

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