Author Archives: Mel

Leaving Italy – final thoughts 

Favourite things about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome. Venice and Naples):
– B says the CT trail was amazing and a definite must do. I have to admit even just going between villages on the ferry, the views were stunning. The regional wine is also pretty fab!

  
– Florence is still one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to. B asked me to add that the pastries in Florence are delicious! Breakfast every day is an adventure. 

– Climb the bell tower in Florence (not the Duomo, which is crowded and terrifying) as well as the facade in Siena. Both have amazing views of the surrounding city and countryside. Breathtaking. 

– Venice was amazing and a must see. In particular we went on a gondolier trip with the most amazing gentleman. He only charged us 120€ for almost an hour, gave a running commentary, took about 90 photos of us and also directed us to a supermarket so we could bring our own wine, no hassles! Can not recommend him enough, you can find him at this location: 

  
– The restaurant we went to on the first night in Rome (see pics on the day 19 post ) was unbelievably good! Well done Rome. It’s also amazing to walk around all these old ruins and constructions and see just how detailed they were. Something we just can’t do in Australia really! We were so lucky with the weather.

– The food we had in Naples was amazing and cheap, definitely less tourist pricing here than in other areas we visited. Loved the local colour we had by staying in Toledo, although it could be a little overwhelming at times. 
Not-so-good stuff about Italy (Pisa, Cinque Terre, Florence, Sienna, Rome, Venice and Naples):

– The goddam tourists in CT were horrendous and we were pretty much in off season. I know, I know…I’m a tourist too! But I mean the absolute masses of people that were just behaving like inconsiderate muppets. Blocking entrances, shoving to get photos, not moving for other people, causing huge delays on the paths by refusing to allow people to pass them….argh. I love the intrepid travel “responsible travel” ideal but I’m not quite sure how supporting this element of CT falls into that category! To be fair, we did stay in a local town and supported small business with our accommodation choice and restaurant options however. 

– Still not a huge fan of Pisa, very over-rated in my opinion. All very gimmicky and it is 18€ just to climb the tower! Which we didn’t do….although Percy may have tried hehehe 

  
– Everywhere we have been in Europe there are a lot of smokers. Being Australian, where it is rapidly becoming less common, we struggle with the smell, the constant ignorance of no smoking signs and just the rudeness of it as there is no consideration for others when they blow smoke in your face. Since we have both been unwell travelling through Italy (interesting how both times I’ve been to Europe, I have ended up with a very nasty chest infection…hmmm) the prolific smoking has become something we both identified as a turn off for us here. 

– Other than the gondolier (mentioned above), the really good restaurant and the amazing scenery…unfortunately not much was good about the people/service in Venice. The hotel management and staff were absolutely appalling (worst review I have ever left on trip advisor), staff in the attractions were rude and don’t even get me started on the baggage check guy! Gah. I know Italy has a certain reputation but Venice takes the cake in that regard. 

– I still maintain the Vatican museum in Rome is the most overrated tourist experience ever. I refused to go this time around and B did, he shared my sentiments. 

– Naples traffic. Holy crap. All the things you read online are NOT an exaggeration. It’s literally every person for themselves and it is terrifying…this gives you a 50 second example of some of it: http://youtu.be/7gYa-gdy22I

– B wants me to add that he has named Italy the land of scaffolding, smoking and shit service. Ha! 

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Day 24: chilling out in Naples

Today started very late…11am in fact. Ah, glorious sleep in. We missed the hotel breakfast so wandered down the shopping strip near us (Via Toledo) looking for food. 

 

wandering down Via Toledo

 
On the way down, B spotted a castle (oooh look a castle, can we go there?) so we went off down a side road where we found a delicious cafeteria. Full of food it was on to the castle!

Castel Nuovo is on the marina and very grim and overbearing. We paid to go in which was a bit of a waste, the best views of it were certainly from outside.

 

Castel Nouvo

  
  

view from halfway up one of the towers on the castle

 
We then spotted the hop on, hop off city sight seeing bus. Generally I have avoided these as I think 20€ per person is a rip off…however in Naples we have found ourselves in the unusual situation where the metro does not take you to tourist destinations. 

  
We were also feeling particularly lazy today so a bus that took you to the sightseeing locations was a very attractive offer! We did line B first and the coastal views over Naples were amazing.

  

    
 
We then took Line A which was about the internal stops. Just to see the crazy driving alone was worth it…phew! 

 

pretty churches and lots of local piazas

  

some of the more creative local graffitti and political protest signage

   
After a stop back at the hotel, it was off to dinner. Another local eatery just off Via Toledo called Antica Trattoria da Pepino and it was very tasty and well priced. Dessert was at a gelaterias just down the road. 

 

mozarella and prosciutto, cannelloni for me, seafood risotto for B and DELISH gelato

 
Tomorrow: off to Paris! We are braving a Naples taxi (heard terrible things, will see how it goes) to get to the airport as the metro + the airport bus will take close to 2hrs in peak hour and a taxi is 15 mins. PARIS!!

Mel

4 more sleeps until my 30th birthday! 

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Day 23: Pompeii and climbing Mt Vesuvius 

Today was a good day. Exhausting though! We started by catching the metro into the central station and attempting to meet our Viator tour guide. Her directions were pretty good (holy crap Naples traffic is terrifying) and we were able to find the van with minimal issues. 

Off we went to Pompeii. I was loving the small tour vibe (6 people) right up until we were combined with another group. From a cruise ship. Gah. We then had headsets to follow the guide around Pompeii with. Double gah. We followed the tour for all of…7 minutes before ditching them and going to explore on our own, which we thought was fine since we had been given a nominated meeting point to return to. Seems like we reeeeally offended the tour guide though! We were in the bad books for awhile after that. 

 

just chilling…

  

i bet the romans thought “what a nice view of that lovely mountain”

  

sitting in a field surrounded by ruins…

  

beautiful

  

percy loved pompeii

  
 

Lunch was included in the viator tour, a giant pizza and soft drink. Then it was back on the (now giant) bus and off to Mt Vesuvius! Very exciting. We arrived in the upper car park and were given 30 mins to walk up, 20 to explore and 20 to walk back down. 

It’s a mountain. Not an easy walk! Very steep! REALLY STEEP! So, for anyone who is considering it some things to note include:

  1. It’s about 2kms from the car park up to the top 
  2. It’s steep pretty much the whole way, there is very few breaks or stopping points
  3. It’s a volcano so…sand and rocks. Be prepared with your shoes
  4. There are two bars on the way up where you can stop for water, souvenirs or wine. My postcard is from the very, very top!
  5. It’s worth it….the view over Naples and being at the top of an active volcano is wow….

 

view over naples

  

a very proud Percy (and me!) at the TOP of Mt Vesuvius

  

looking into the crater, yep thats smoke

Then it was dinner time at another local place in Naples. It’s very non-touristy here which is great because there’s no tourists but makes it hard to eat when you don’t speak italian! We went to another local eatery (Trattoria Toledo) where we had some communication issues but the food was pretty delish

 

amazing local wine (yes that is an empty bottle lol), delicious mixed entree, gnocchi for B and grilled chicken for me, mixed veg as a side

 
Now? We are listening to Hamish and Andy “the race that slows a nation” to see which horse suit won! And drinking wine 🙂

Mel
P.S. Laundry update: nope, no such thing as a self service laundromat in Naples. Since I REFUSE to pay 3€ to launder one item of clothing our room is now covered in semi damp, sink washed shirts. 

P.P.S. For those considering Naples…it’s an interesting experience. Not tourist friendly at all, which can be nice but can also be confusing. Italian service is pretty much what we have come to expect though *shudder* 

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Day 22: The Colosseum, The Vatican and Naples

More Rome exploring today. After a late night because a school group checked in to Hotel Stella (I will admit, I took great pleasure in slamming our hotel room door at least 17 times at 7am this morning…) we were off to the Colosseum! We explored both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum in the morning, beating the majority of the crowds. 
   
  

roman forum

   

ripped my 3/4 leggings so having to pair loose pants with joggers….ever the fashion icon! Haha

 

Then we caught the metro (with a line change, gah) to the Vatican Museum. That took about 40 mins for anyone planning this as a future option. B had pre bought his ticket and I had opted to skip it altogether since I have been before and walk down the street to Castel Sant’Angelo. B thought “the Vatican Museum was kinda cool with all its art and stuff but the Sistine Chapel was significantly underwhelming”. He didn’t go to the St Peter’s Basilica as the line was ginormous. 
 

cool statue

  

pretty ceiling (not the sistine chapel, he ignored my request for a sneaky pic!)

 
My experience at the castle was a bit of a fail, beautiful to look at but apparently closed on Mondays…although their website doesn’t say that! On the plus side, I had time to go to the post office and send postcards to the Donaldson clan and B’s mum. 

 

panorama of the castle

  

bridge near the castle (i walked over this last time i was here! there is a photo of Percy hanging out with the castle in yhe background waaaaay back on my blog)

   

Instead of castle exploring, I sat in the shade and read a travel swap book while eating gelato. Two of my favourite things combined 🙂

  
We met up again and spent an hour people watching near the Spanish Steps, the guys trying to rip people off with “free” flowers are absolutely fascinating. At 5pm it was off to Naples! The train ride this time had been pre booked months ago and we must have scored a higher class as there was free chips and wine. I was a happy camper.

  
Our hotel here (Hotel Toledo) is three stops on the metro out of the central area and seems to have a lot of local character. Dinner was delicious at Pizza e Baba. 

 

entree: mozarella and prosciutto (my go to entree now) with local wine, napoli pizza and risotto

 
Laying in bed now with the window wide open I can hear restaurant owners shouting, children playing and lots of scooters honking as they zoom up and down the cobblestones. Lovely.

Steps today: 28000! Crazy

Tomorrow: POMPEII!!!

Mel

P.S. Apparently self service laundromats are not a thing in Naples. Seriously. Google supports this, lots of other equally confused bloggers out there too. Just hand washed all my travel knickers in the sink (they are made for that but I have been lazy and had a backlog) and we are sniff testing our shirts….

6 more sleeps to my birthday! 

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Day 21: Venice back to Rome! 

Venice was very pretty and well worth a visit. We are very glad we made the effort to come! Romance capital for the win 🙂 It was stunning to see in the beautiful sunshine and we have gotten unbelievably lucky with the weather….sunny and relatively warm (high teens, low twenties) the whole time. 

 

the rialto bridge

   
We spent our morning wandering the side streets, taking photos and purchasing some amazing Murano glass for the house (and presents for people!).

 

B bought himself a cuttlefish. Yep. A cuttlefish! We also bought some elephants haha i like those a lot!

  

The same glass horse i saw in 2012! Unfortunately no glass blowing demo this time

 

Then we caught the vaporetto back to the train station and it was another 4hr train trip back to Rome. The train trips aren’t so bad now as they seem less crowded (goodbye tourist season) and we have both just been napping and listening to Hamish and Andy podcasts to pass the time. The trains here have snack cars:

italian twisties! Hehe

We arrived back in Rome and tried to get up to the view point above Spagna station to see the sunset, unfortunately directions in the subway were terrible and we took the wrong exit and missed it. Oh well, that’s something to come back for another time!

Dinner was at “Steak House” near the Roma Termini station. Very good. Not so much traditional Italian as slabs of meat but B was chuffed to have a steak and I loved my chicken with mushrooms. Now we are drinking chianti and watching Italian dubbed funniest home videos in the hotel room.

 

entree: prosciutto and mozarella (addictive), mains: steak with creamy peppercorn sauce and chicken with mushrooms, dessert: apple pie!

 
 Tomorrow: a day of touristing (the colloseum and the Vatican for B/a castle or park walk for me) and then off to Naples in the evening 👍

One week exactly until I turn the big 3-0! The countdown begins. 

Mel 

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Day 20: Venice 

Today we went to Venice! It was a bit of a last minute decision as we hadn’t planned on it in our itinerary but B has never been so we opted to sacrifice 1.5 days of our 3.5 days in Rome to experience the romance capital together. We booked the train tickets earlier this week with the help of our intrepid leader and I found some accommodation actually ON the island. Yippie!

After a long express train ride (3hrs 50mins) where we experienced the joy of an Italian family eating a full on picnic in the seats next to us…with literally a suitcase full of food…we arrived in Venetia Saint Lucia which is the Venice port train station. It was then a 30 minute vaporetto (water bus) ride through the canals to the hotel. 

   
 

After some check in hassles (note: ALWAYS have your passports with you in Europe!!) we were able to get into our room and explore the city. We started with Saint Marks square and going up in the tower. Amazing view! 

   
 

We then went on a gondala ride! Great experience that you have to at least try when in Venice. Our gondala guide was awesome as not only did we get the history but he also let us bring a bottle of wine with no hassles…and no charge. B has actually let me post a super special photo this time around….he is in it! Sort of.
 

  

gorgeous canal photo

  

Rialto Bridge!

  
 

After the gondala ride (and sharing a full bottle of Chianti!) we went to 6342 A Le Tol Pizzeria which was a fair walk away from the hotel but AMAZING food. We were first in line when it opened and got the only unreserved table! Excellent value with all this + table charges and water only 40€. I am so full I can’t move now. 

deep fried mozarella and mushrooms

calzoni for B

 

pizza for me…delish!

  

Very happy with our decision to come to Venice at short notice – high 5 to us!

Mel  

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Day 19: Rome!

Off to Rome today! We caught the bullet train (300km an hour) direct to Roma Termini which took about an hour and a half. Our hotel is very close to the train station. New pet hate: street sellers who put things into your lap and then tell you to pay for it…or push it into your hands while touching you. Mel’s solution: it alternates between dropping the item on the floor, shoving back, or shouting NO BUGGER OFF loudly and in a very off putting way. Success varies for all methods. 
We have done a bit of a sneaky and are room sharing with someone tomorrow night. We will be in Venice but still have the room for the luggage and to save checking out and back in the next day…so to save her spending her last night in a crappy hostel, we are loaning her the room key on the sly. Sneeeeaky. Very Australian! Haha.

We started our first afternoon in Rome with a walking tour courtesy of our intrepid leader, it was a very long tour! We started at the Spanish Steps which unfortunately were closed for works, but from the side you can hardly tell (lol) and the best part of this photo was no tourists on them!

  
We then visited a bakery that makes the best Tiramasu in Italy (apparently) and B gave it a big thumbs up.

  

That was the point where Andrea (our leader) told us he would take us to the three best gelato places in Rome so we could compare. Pretty sure it was meant to be a joke but I took him literally….

 

gelato place 1: il gelato disan crispo.

  

gelato place 2: Grom

  

gelato number 3: Fatamorgana

 

The verdict? I thought number one was best but number three was a close contender.

Aside from gelato, we also explored some well  known sites in Rome including the Trevi fountain, Piazza Novona, a number of cathedrals, the Pantheon, the Parliament, the colloseum and others. We saw a political protest which was pretty cool. It was a beautiful warm afternoon wandering in the sun and a nice cool evening. 

 

parliament

  

Piaza Novona

  

this is a pretty picture taken at last light near the palace

  

  

trevi fountain (under renovation so only the top part)

 
  

After our walk, we had a short rest and then it was off to our final dinner with our intrepid group. We did the whole envelope/card tip collection thing on the sly and Andrea (Andy!) was happy. The food at Hostaria da Vincenzo was delicious and very well priced, I highly recommend it.

 

prosciutto and mozzarella

  

veal for both mains omnomnom

  

lemon meringue pie and a dessert that started with M and had two double L’s in it!

  

limoncello to finish

 
We finished this feast with a leisurely walk back to the hotel and lots of goodbyes. There were hugs. I’m a terrible hugger dammit. 

Steps today: 22571

Kilometres: 15.6kms

Tomorrow: VENICE! Looking forward to a romantic gondala ride with my special someone 🙂 

  

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My favourite photo from Siena 

I forgot that I took this one! 

It’s like a picture from a postcard but…no edits, no filters….nothing but a beautiful city during a brief break from rainfall. 

  

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Day 18: Siena 

Off to explore Siena today! Our tour leader bought our bus tickets and helped us catch the bus there (about an hour from Florence, very easy to do) and then gave us a little tour, including the main square. 

 
  

We were then left to our own devices with a return bus timetable and prepaid tickets. First ofF, we paid 12€ to explore all the parts of the cathedral and climb the facade. The views were beautiful from the top, overlooking both Siena and Tuscany. Damn all those stairs though! We were very lucky the rain cleared for about an hour and not only did we get the stunning view, we also got to go all the way to the top for the first time that day. 

   
    

 Lunch was another delicious Italian food experience at San Desiderio Ristorante near the back of the cathedral. B had penne with pork ragout and I had amazing braised beef. With drinks and a service charge it was only 30€ so not bad for such a touristy area.   
 
We then explored inside the cathedral and museum, which had a beautiful stained glass window from around 1200 AD that had been preserved during the war and never moved back to the church. The building itself is huge and is one of the largest cathedrals in Italy. 

   
   
On the way out, we stopped and bought me some lovey Italian boots (yay!) as the weather is starting to get consistently wetter now and it was always my plan to buy a decent pair of ankle boots at this point in the trip rather than lug them around up to now. 

We caught the bus back to Florence easily enough and had dinner at the Centrale Mercato with two other members of our tour….again. Can not recommend it enough….the pasta….omnomnom. 

Tomorrow: Rome! The farewell dinner for our intrepid group is tomorrow 😦 it will be back to travelling with just us until we come back in two weeks. We still have Rome, Venice, Naples and Paris to go. 

Mel

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Mercato Centrale: a must do eating experience in Florence 

A must do! Amazing fresh food, so many choices. Kinda like a fancy food court….with alcohol! Location and opening details below.

  
B and I split our meal, so entree was delicious tortellini cooked fresh right in front of you (12€)

  
Then there was the wood fired pizza (10€):

  
Followed by banana and chocolate chip gelato (3€ each)!

  

Others in our group tried a huge variety of food including:

Ginger and orange juice, cucumber and kiwi fruit juice and kiwi fruit and apple juice

Fresh cooked scallops with salad

Raw meat pate with salad (ewwww not for me)

Two types of fresh cooked soup 

Cannelloni 

Other gelato flavours and a mixed desserts plate

Not to mention the wine! 🙂 

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